FEBRUARY 2012 COVER FEATURE & INTERVIEW
Egypt Is This the Best Time to Go?
By Barbara Radcliffe and Stillman Rogers
The fascination with Egypt that begins in childhood is later fueled by books and films, from Agatha Christie to Ann Rice’s The Mummy. So, it’s no wonder the land of the Pharaohs is high on everyone’s must-see list. But with scenes from Cairo on the nightly news, your clients may be wondering – is it safe? Is this the right time to go?
From all accounts by those who’ve recently savored the world-class wonders of this ancient land, the answer to both questions seems to be a resounding yes. Without the usual crowds, and with Egyptians particularly grateful to those who support them with tourist dollars, visitors find both a warm welcome and extra care for their safety. And without the usual hordes of tourists, even the most popular sights are uncrowded, enjoyed at leisure and without lines.
Marc Kazlauskas of Insight Tours, the region’s largest operator, agrees that the time is right, “No question about it, you will have access to sites without crowds that had not been possible for years. We have customers coming back saying visiting the Valley of the Kings was almost spiritual as you can tour the tombs virtually alone.” He adds, “The pricing is fantastic and the best we have offered in years – for sheer value, now is the very best time to go.”
Perhaps the first thing to remind doubtful clients is that the news only shows the protests, not the rest of Cairo going about its daily business or travelers enjoying the city’s treasures in peace. The second is that everyone in Egypt is very conscious that tourism is one of their leading industries, providing one-seventh of the country’s jobs. The government, tourist facilities and local citizens are anxious to assure the security of travelers; hotels have airport-like screening and tour buses have inconspicuous, but well-trained security personnel on board. That said, whenever anyone travels in a time of local unrest, they should observe common-sense precautions. (See “Security Tips”).
One possibility to allay clients’ fears is to suggest bypassing Cairo and heading straight to the Nile Valley, but to do so would be to miss Egypt’s most iconic site, and a vibrant, interesting city. No tourist has been injured in the disturbances and the situation is well described by Cairo Egyptologist Tarek Abdel Halim who reports, “The disturbances are just around the Ministry of Interior and the Egyptian Parliament, which are quite far from all the sights of Cairo such as the Pyramids, Saqqrara, Memphis, Dahshur, Old Cairo, Coptic Cairo, the Grand Bazaar, etc.” He goes on to say that, “The locals take care of the tourists, as they know that tourism is one of the biggest industries in Egypt.”
Cairo’s Sights
Built four and a half millennia ago, the Sphinx and Pyramids are the most widely recognized symbols of Egypt. The Great Pyramid of Khufu, the oldest and largest, is even more awe-inspiring without the crowds that normally rush through it. Tell clients not to miss the extraordinary Solar Boat Museum, featuring a cedarwood boat built to carry King Khufu into the afterlife, completely original except for its ropes.
In addition to Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, a treasure house of more than 100,000 artifacts, suggest that clients tour Coptic Cairo, an early Christian neighborhood where the Holy Family is thought to have lived during their flight into Egypt. One of Cairo’s oldest quarters, it contains ancient churches and an excellent museum. Cairo’s atmospheric souk of Khan al Khalili is not just for souvenir hunters. Its bustling narrow passages are a kaleidoscope of spices, jewelry, copper and brassware, carpets and clothing from belly-dance outfits to traditional galabeyas. Send serious shoppers looking for handmade tapestries, fine batiks and pottery to Ramses Wissa Wassef Art Centre at Harrania, near Giza (www.wissawassef.com).
To assure clients the safest and the most rewarding exploration of Cairo’s sights, book them a licensed tour guide, preferably one with a degree in Egyptology. ToursByLocals (www.ToursByLocals.com/CairoEgyptTourGuideService) offers this service, as does Scepter Travel (www.sceptertravel.com), which also has a branch in Luxor.
Most major hotel groups have properties in this city of 16 million people, including five-star Sonesta Cairo Hotel & Casino (www.sonesta.com/cairo), 10 minutes from the airport, where a hotel representative meets arriving guests to assist with visa and luggage, then escorts them to the hotel in a complimentary limousine. The downtown Nile Kempinski (visit www.kempinski.com/en/cairo) is the city’s newest five-star luxury hotel, and offers 20% discounts for bookings at least a week in advance. Here, as elsewhere in the city, book clients on the highest possible floor to escape the ever-present street noise. Although it’s 11 miles from downtown Cairo, for an historic atmosphere overlooking the pyramids, suggest the old wing at the Mena House Oberoi Hotel, furnished in antiques and handcrafted pieces. This is a good location for those planning to take in the sound and light show, and offers an excellent Indian restaurant (www.oberoihotels.com).
Clients who do choose to skip Cairo have plenty of alternatives. “There is much to do in Egypt that takes visitors outside of Cairo, with daily flights from Europe to directly to Luxor, Aswan and Sharm el Sheikh,” says Stephanie Sonnabend, president and CEO of the Sonesta Collection. “The Nile cruise experience includes many elements of the classical tour… the temples at Edfu and Philae, the Valley of the Kings and Queens and the Aswan High Dam. Many of these sites are also available while staying at a hotel in Luxor, where visitors may choose to relax at the pool overlooking the Nile River. The Red Sea beach resorts offer a great travel value right now and provide an opportunity beyond the beach and world-class diving to explore the Bedouin and desert culture or even to visit St. Catherine’s Monastery at Mount Sinai.”
Nile Valley
Most of Egypt’s greatest historic sights lie in the Nile Valley between Aswan and Luxor, and the best way to visit them is by a Nile cruise. At Luxor are Karnak and Luxor Temples, the Valley of the Kings and Queens, the temple of Hatshepsut at Deir el-Bahari and the Colossi Memnon. At Aswan are the High Dam, Philae Temple and Granite Quarries, as well as lesser-known sights of Elephantine Island, St. Simeon’s Monastery, the unfinished Obelisk and Nubian Museum. Between these, cruises stop for temples at Kom Ombo and Edfu.
The major player in Nile cruises is Sonesta, with a base office in Cairo and six luxury river ships sailing three, four and seven-night itineraries between Aswan and Luxor. The largest is the 130-passenger Sonesta Nile Goddess, and the smallest is Sonesta Dahabeya, an intimate and stylish update of the traditional Nile sailing boat, with five cabins, two suites, an open-air Jacuzzi and spacious sundeck. Its seven-night itineraries are perfect for clients planning a family or small-group private cruise.
The newest is the Sonesta St. George I, with 47 deluxe cabins and 10 suites, perhaps the most elegant of all ships on the Nile. St. George I has a full-service spa and fitness center, in addition to the restaurant, bars, nightly entertainment and guided excursions common to all Sonesta’s ships. All are fully commissionable (www.sonesta.com). A typical itinerary includes guided visits to the East and West bank sights in Luxor, the Temple of the gods Sobek and Haroeris in Kom Ombo, the Horus Temple in Edfu and Aswan’s High Dam and Philae Temple. The main difference in the various length cruises is that 7-night itineraries take a more leisurely pace, with only one daily excursion and one full day to just relax on-board.
Several other companies offer options in various styles. The Indian-based Oberoi hotel group operates the Oberoi Zahra, a luxury cruiser that sails seven-day itineraries between Luxor and Aswan (www.oberoihotels.com).
The building of the immense Aswan Dam created a 300-mile-long impoundment, now Lake Nasser. Averaging 6 miles across, the lake is filled with hundreds of islands and offers a scenic, historic and wildlife-filled route to Abu Simbel. Travel Egypt (www.nilecruising.com) offers 3 and 4-night cruises on the Eugenie, a modern vessel in the style of a turn-of-the-century Nile steamship, between Aswan and Abu Simbel; Travel Egypt offers agents a 20% commission. Day-trips to Abu Simbel can also be arranged, by a short EgyptAir (www.egyptair.com) flight from Aswan or by tour bus. Caution clients that although the overland option costs less, it usually means leaving well before dawn and requires long hours on the bus. In either case, they will want to spend at least one night in Aswan.
You might advise clients with time to spare, or those booking shorter cruises, to spend time in Aswan and/or Luxor. In the latter, Sonesta St. George Hotel Luxor (www.sonesta.com) overlooks the Nile in expansive contemporary elegance. Those who prefer to savor an earlier era will like the five-star Winter Palace (www.sofitel.com), built in 1886, amid tropical gardens beside the Nile.
The big news in hotels is the re-opening in 2011 of the lavishly restored and completely modernized Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan, the third worldwide under the exclusive Sofitel Legend label. After three years’ closure for extensive renovations, this property overlooking the Nile retains the history and grandeur of the original 1899 hotel that hosted Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie. The 76 rooms and 47 suites of its Historic Wing and the contemporary Elephantine Wing’s 62 rooms and 53 suites are richly decorated, and the hotel includes a So SPA and pool, several bars and fine-dining restaurants with a French flair (www.sofitel.com).
For clients not booking a Nile cruise, arrange local tours to the sights near Aswan or Luxor through LocalGuiding. Their website (www localguiding.com) shows the individual qualifications and specialties of highly experienced English-speaking guides, many with degrees in Egyptology.
Beaches and More
Surprisingly, its miles of golden beaches draw more tourists to Egypt than the ancient sights, with the Sinai and Sharm el-Sheikh and El-Gouna — just north of Hurghada on the Red Sea — favored by high-end vacationers. Overlooking the latter’s turquoise waters is InterContinental Abu Soma (www.intercontinental.com) and Sofitel’s five-star hotel rises from the beach at Sharm El Sheikh. Sun-and-sand trips can easily include visits to St. Catherine’s Monastery and other Sinai Peninsula monuments. The Red Sea also has some of the world’s best scuba diving, with shipwrecks and pristine reefs to explore.
Long overlooked, Alexandria, founded on the Mediterranean Sea in 331 BC by Alexander the Great, is getting more attention since the opening of the new Library of Alexandria near the site of the 3rd-century BC original that was burned by the Romans. The National Museum, a Roman Amphitheatre and Catacomb add to its attractions. Chic Four Seasons Alexandria opened in 2007, with a spa and sea views (www.fourseasons.com/alexandria).
Tour operators package a wide variety of experiences for all interests and budgets, perhaps the best choice for visitors seeking added assurance. Some, like Abercrombie & Kent (www. abercrombiekent.com), embrace Egypt’s struggle for democracy by including this aspect in their tours. Foreign Independent Tours (www.fittours.com) offers a wide range, from an 8-day budget trip to a 15-day itinerary that mixes Cairo, a Nile cruise and the beaches of Sharm El Sheikh, all fully commissionable.
Among the most in-depth view of Egypt’s many dimensions is Insight’s 16-day Grand Egyptian Explorer, which includes a 7-day cruise of Lake Nasser (with Abu Simbel) and the Nile, viewing the sunrise from Mount Sinai and the Western Desert El-Alamein war memorials, in addition to the sights of Cairo and a full day exploring Alexandria (www.insightvacations.com). Their budget-friendly 9-day Best of Egypt itinerary features a 3-night cruise and overnight train from Cairo to Aswan, evokes the romance of the golden age of rail travel.
Travel Details
Visitors need a visa to enter Egypt, obtained before the trip or – more usually – at the airport on arrival. Applications are usually distributed prior to landing. Clients arriving without Egyptian money will need to stop at an ATM or exchange counter first; the whole process takes at least 30 minutes, so allow time before on-going flights. The Egyptian Tourist Authority in New York (www.touregypt.net) can supply current details on visas, and is an excellent source of travel information.
EgyptAir (www.egyptair.com) serves all airports. Additionally, Alexandria is served by Olympic Airlines; Luxor has direct flights from Europe via Air France and Lufthansa, which also flies to Hurghada.
Egypt Travel Tips
For English language information in Egypt call 3291-4255 or 3291-2266.
Keep plenty of small denominations of Egyptian pounds for tipping, expected everywhere.
Currency exchange is government controlled so rates are the same everywhere in Egypt.
Try to plan tours of Nile Valley sites for morning to avoid the afternoon heat.
Bring sun screen with high SPF, especially during summer, and wear a hat in the sun.
Women should dress modestly to avoid harassment.
Wear breathable cotton in summer and carry a covering for shoulders in some temples; wear layers in winter for warm days and cool evenings.
Bring comfortable shoes; there is a lot of walking on uneven temple floors.
Avoid food from street vendors and never drink tap water.
Egypt uses 220 volt electric current and plugs with two round prongs, as in Europe.
Security Tips
For updated conditions call the State Department at 888-407-4747 (US and Canada), 202-501-4444 elsewhere or visit http://travel.state.gov/travel
For emergencies in Egypt, call the American Embassy at 2797-2301, Sun-Thur, 1-3pm or 2797-3300 at other times.
Avoid all demonstrations; even peaceful ones may not remain safe.
Always carry identification and, if out alone, a cell phone that works in Egypt.
Explore with an organized tour or licensed guide, who will know local conditions.
Be careful walking around Cairo, especially crossing streets; pedestrian accidents are common.
Always ask the hotel reception to call a taxi; they will know reliable companies.
With Mohamed Hegazy, Tourism Attaché for the Egyptian Tourist Authority
JAX FAX recently spoke with Mr. Mohamed Hegazy, Tourism Attaché for the Egyptian Tourist Authority in New York. At the time, Mr. Hegazy was on vacation in Cairo, and told us that he saw no 
demonstrations at all. He believes that the media has exaggerated the situation in Egypt, and that their coverage concentrates on only one square of the entire country. The remainder of Egypt remains safe and unaffected. We asked him several questions to bring us up to date on recent developments in Egypt.
Last year, Egypt had many plans for renovation of museums and tourist sites, and increasing the number of hotel rooms. Can you tell us what strides have been made in achieving these goals?
It takes two to three years to accomplish such goals and development on the ground in Egypt continues. There are currently 270,000 three, four and five star hotel rooms in Egypt, and 115,000 additional rooms are under construction. These should be completed within a year or two.
Renovation of the Museum of Islamic Art in Cairo was begun under the former ministry, was completed last year, and is now open for visitors.
Can you tell us about Egypt’s efforts in sustainable tourism?
Egypt is very environmentally conscious, and the whole city of Sharm El Sheikh and Sinai follow the international green building standards and environmental rules.
Toward late 2011, the number of visitors to Egypt was increasing steadily. What are your visitor projections for 2012?
We have received fantastic feedback from both consumers and tour operators, indicating a booking increase to levels last seen in 2010. During 2011, the number of tourists decreased by 43% but all current indications are that 2012 will be a time of recovery to levels of 2010. We are very hopeful.
During the election period there may be areas that tourists might want to avoid. Can you provide our travel agents with information to assist them in providing their clients with accurate travel advice?
The only place that tourists might want to avoid would be downtown Cairo, which is where the demonstrations have taken place. All other areas remain unaffected with no demonstrations, and are able to be fully enjoyed. We recommend that tourists use the services of a tour guide, and participate in escorted tours. Guides will be well informed about the most current circumstances in Egypt, and will also be best able to show visitors all that Egypt has to offer.
What are some of the must-see destinations that visitors to Egypt will not want to miss?
In addition to the traditional sites of Cairo, Luxor and Aswan, tourists will want to visit Sharm El Sheikh, which is a unique area offering snorkeling, beaches, and golf. An itinerary which combines this area with the more traditional sites in Egypt will offer the cultural experience visitors are seeking, as well as a complete family experience. For a family vacation, the needs and desires of all family members will be met.
What are some of the more off-the-beaten-path destinations that might offer visitors a unique Egypt travel experience?
Lesser-known travel options available in Egypt are desert and oasis tours in 4x4 vehicles. There are also safaris in unique environmental preserves on the Red Sea coast.
As agents continue to specialize and focus on specific destinations, will Egypt be offering and FAM trip opportunities? If so, who should they contact for more information?
In 2011, Egypt offered trips to USTOA and NTA and plan to continue to offer such trips to travel agents and other organizations during 2012.
For additional information, visit www.egypt.travel, or call their New York office at 212-332-2570.