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Cover feature: SPAIN
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ARTICLE FROM 2007 TO 2001 ARE AVAILABLE ONLINE SEE LIST OF FEATURE ON TEH RIGHT COLUMN OF THIS PAGE.




FEATURES FROM 2004- to 2010
FOR 2011 CLICK HERE

AFRICA
ROUND UPS

Safari Planner 10/10
Southern Africa’s Diversity 5/10
BAHRAIN
Secret Formula • 10/08
BOTSWANA
Southern Africa’s Diversity 5/10
Classical Deviations • 10/07

ETHIOPIA
Northern Treasures 11/10
Riding Modern Wave 0708
Endearing Ethiopia • 01/ 07
Cover feature • 02/ 02

JORDAN
Historical Days & Arabian Nights 7/10
KENYA

Make a Dash for Kenya 6/10
A Great Adventure 3/10
Kenya’s Annual Epic 11/09
Kenya’s Big Five Appeal 7/09
Selling Safaris 1/09
Safaris (cover) • 06/ 08
Under the Stars • 12/07
...and Tanzania • 09/07
Ecotourism Nation • 06/ 07

MOROCCO
Morocco Mosaic 9/10
Marrakesh, so Magically 10/09
Unlimited Appeal 10/08
Millions in Visitors • 01/ 08

Large & Lovely • 08/ 07
Off the Beaten Road • 02/06

QATAR
Flourishing in the Desert 11/10
SOUTH AFRICA

Open for Business! 710
Soccer in 2010 10/09
ASTA IDE 2009 1/09
Re-Invents Itself • 05/ 08
Wine Harvest • 07/ 07
Western Cape • 03/ 07

TANZANIA
Southern Africa’s Diversity 5/10
Safaris Without Borders 1/10
Classic safaris • 09/08
Its Own Mission • 05/ 08
No longer little sister • 09/07

TUNISIA
A Taste of Tunisia • 05/06 UGANDA
Emerges from Shell• 08/06
ZAMBIA
Southern Africa’s Diversity 5/10
Classical Deviations • 10/07

ZIMBABWE

Southern Africa’s Diversity 5/10
Classical Deviations • 10/07


ASIA
AUSTRALIA
Natural Wonders 12/10
Ten Things To Experience in Sydney 8/10
From Culture to Nature 12/09
Aussie Outback 1/09
Melbourne's Wild Side• 0708
Driving Business • 02/ 08
Hidden Secrets • 08/ 07
Stellar Attractions • 02/ 07

CHINA
Beijing Your Way COV 1/11
Hotel Boom Continues 10/10
Voluntourism 7/10
Tthe Real China COVER 1/10
Beijing Hotel Boom 11/08
Reaches for the Moon • 03/ 08
Tourism Wave • 11/07
Guangzhou • 03/ 07

COOK ISLANDS
Live out your dream 09/08
The latest Hot Spot • 12/07
Paradise Contention • 10/07

FIJI
Fiji’s Many Faces 9/10
Tropical Touchdown 10/08
Smile You're on Fiji • 02/ 08
Tropical Getaway • 01/06

INDIA
A Bright Future 10/10
Awestruck in India &
New Travel Products for 2010-11
Expands Tourism Territory 3/10
Cultural Journey 12/09
Mumbai Revisited 3/09
Kochi: Calm, Complex 12/08
Sacred to Sublime • 08/08
Mumbai's Bollywood • 05/ 08
Driving Business • 12/07
Madyha Pradesh • 07/ 07
Maharashtra • 06/ 07
What's New • 05/ 07

JAPAN
Neo-Ryo 11/10
2010 is Visit Japan Year 5/10
Jeju’s Enticing Mix 12/09
Luxury Travel Forum 1/09
In and out of Tokyo • 08/ 08
KOREA
Ceramic Arts 9/10
Historic & Cultura 5/10 COVER
48 Hours in Seoul 11/09
Traveling to Korea to Eat 10/09
Affordable Seoul 1/09
New Arts Center • 09/08
Sancturay in Temples • 12/07

Jeju Island • 02/ 07
ASTA Expo • 01/ 07

LAOS
Cave City Opens • 04/ 07
MACAU
Beyond Gaming • 01/ 08
Taking a Bow • 07/ 07

MALAYSIA
Sizzling Malaysia 3/10
Sight seeing • 02/06
NEW CALEDONIA
The Secret is Out • 07/08
NEW ZEALAND
A Taste of Wine Country
Bumped Ski Season 08/09
Discounted Five-Star 3/09
Luxury & Adventure • 04/ 08
Hidden Secrets • 08/ 07

SINGAPORE
What Makes Singapore Hot for 2010? 01/10
Singapore Corners SE Asia Market 10/09
Value and Deals 7/09
TAIWAN
Lantern Festival 3/10
Warm Welcome • 03/06



THAILAND
Welcomes Visitors Back 8/10

City Chic to Rural Respite 5/10
Asia’s New Island of Tourism 3/10
Elephant Back Riding • 08/06

Exotic Bangkok • 02/06
VIETNAM

Luxurious Adventure • 09/07

CARIBBEAN
ROUND UP FEATURES

Caribbean Family Holiday 11/10
Summer Deals 5/10
Passion in Paradise 1/10
ANGUILLA
Happy in Eastern Carib 12/10
A Sliver of Shangri-La
Big Agent Plans for 2010 10/09
Branding of Anguilla 11/08
New Celebrity Status • 04/ 08
Winter Curtain Call • 01/ 08
Secret is out • 05/ 07 cover

Off-Posh Prices • 04/ 07

ANTIGUA & BARBUDA
The Beach is the Beginning 10/10
The Sandy Sister 02/10
Spread Carnival Fever 7/09
Festive Side 09/08
Wedding Bells- 07/08 Cover
Tropical Paradise • 05/ 08

Blessed with Beauty • 09/ 07
Twin Deals • 06/ 07

ARUBA
Easy as A-B-C: Selling the Dutch Islands 810
Divi"s Inside Edge 12/08
BARBADOS
A Blue Sky Holiday 6/10
The Bajan Macation • 04/ 08
BAHAMAS
Cable Beach • 06/08
BONAIRE
Easy as A-B-C: Selling the Dutch Islands 810
CAYMAN ISLANDS

CITE Report on Caymans 7/09
CITE Report • 09/ 07

CURACAO
Easy as A-B-C: Selling the Dutch Islands 810
Onsite Report 4/07
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
Five Star Race • 0608
La Romana • 11/07
New hot Spot • 0107

GRENADA
Moves into Tourism
GUYANA
Land of Many Waters • 04/06
JAMAICA
Tie The Knot In Jamaica 0111
Jamaica on a Roll 710
The Heart of Jamaica 11/09
Luxury in Jamaica 11/09
Committed to Tourism • 8/08
Cool Green • 02/ 08

Waterparks • 10/07
Hidden Charms • 03/ 07

MARTINIQUE
Isle of Flowers • 05/ 07
Living Well • 02/06
PUERTO RICO
Beyond the Surf, Sand...3/10
Golfing 08/09
Star-Studded 12/08
SAINT MARTIN
Paassionate & Plaayful
Taste of Europe 12/08
Upper Market • 07/08
SMART Report • 07/ 07

ST. KITTS
Caribbean’s Sweetheart 910
Expansion Plans • 03/ 08
ST. LUCIA
The Newest Edge 12/09
For Kids & Grown-Ups 10/08
Almond Smugglers • 09/ 07

From Golf to Marinas • 06/06

ST. VINCENT &

THE GRENADINES

Island Hopping • 03/ 08
TURKS & CAICOS
Gold Coast 10/09
U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

America’s Caribbean 3/10
Team Spirit 12/08

EUROPE
ROUND UPS

Jewish Heritage 0111
Central Eastern Europe 03/10

AUSTRIA
Vienna Tops the List of Best Cities To Live In 6/10
Waltz through Vienna 11/09
Vienna: Hip & Festive 3/09
Vienna's Passion 10/08
Vienna Culture • 05/ 08
Along the Danube • 04/ 08

New Properties • 09/ 07
atcb Unites Region • 06/ 07
Vienna Happenings • 03/ 07

BELGIUM
River Towns 12/10
FLANDERS for the Casual Connoisseur 9/10 COVER
FLANDERS
Cultivating a
Taste for Finer Things 3/10
FLANDERS Antwerp 12/09FLANDERS: Stellar Sites 10/09
Arrive as a Visitor, Leave as a Belgian 08/09
Belgian Hotels • 07/08
Wallonia • 10/07

BRITAIN
Trail Back to London 3/10
Weekend in London 12/08
Top Hotels 06/ 08
Liverpool • 04/ 08
Eurostar Paris/London • 1107

BULGARIA
Central Eastern Europe 03/08
CANARY ISLANDS
Classics in Canaries • 01/08 Sunny Canaries • 11/ 06
CROATIA
A Country for All Seasons 910
Croatia’s Adriatic Coast 3/10
Europe’s Newest Riviera 4/09
Something big in 2009 • 09/08
Wine Country • 04/ 08

Cultural Circle• 10/07
Heart & Soul • 04/ 07

CYPRUS
Highlights From the Birthplace of Beauty Cover Nov. 2010
Cyprus thru Centuries 1/10
Golden Anniversary 10/09
Cypriot Primer 10/08
From Wine to Water 6/08
Loving the Island • 10/07
Cool Cats • 09/ 07


CZECH REPUBLIC
Gentle Evolution Cover 7/10
Bohemian Attractions 12/09
Footsteps of princes 10/08
For Young at Heart • 08/ 07

DENMARK
Scandinavian Smorgasbord 810
Culture & History • 01/06
FINLAND
Helsinki By Design 810
Scandinavian Smorgasbord 810
Not just in Summer 10/08
Helsinki's New Face • 04/ 08
Rauma • 05/06

FRANCE
Design Hotels In Paris 11/10
France’s Big Summer Festivals
Still Among Top Five 1/09
Rhone Alpes Region • 02/ 08
ASTA in Lyon • 12/ 07
Eurostar Paris/London • 1107


GERMANY
Promoting Health & Wellness 10/10 Cover Feature
Mainz and Much More 6/10
Designs on creative Germany 3/10
Oberammergau Passion Play 08/09
GTM ’09 Visits Northeast 7/09
Networking in Bavaria • 09/08
Beating the Euro • 04/ 08
Posh Palaces • 03/ 08

Automotives • 03/ 07
What Not to Miss • 02/ 07
Dusseldorf • 09/06
GREECE
Northern Escapades 10/10
Greek Suppliers • 08/08
Greek Cruises • 02/08
Island Trio • 08/ 07

GREENLAND
New Access • 05/ 07
HOLLAND
Rembrandt & Tulips • 01/06
HUNGARY
High End Value, Old World Ambience 5/10
Budapest Live Arts 12/08
Celebrating Budapest • 04/ 08

IRELAND
Go where Ireland Directs your 310
Finding Yourself • 03/ 08
Dublin • 11/07
Foynes SeaPlanes • 10/07

ITALY
Salerno, Amalfi Coast 11/10
Get Lost in Erice, Sicily 5/10
The Veneto 1/10
Tuscany 03/09
Roman Revival1/09 Cover
Ri mini celebrates 11/08
Deals & Sunshine 09/08
Affordable Italy 6/08
Western Sicily • 01/ 08

Abruzzo • 07/ 07

LITHUANIA
Close up at Vilnus • 08/ 07
MALTA
Historic Tempos 12/08
Many Faces • 05/04

NORWAY
Scandinavian Smorgasbord 810
Stavanger • 04/ 08

In the fjords • 01/06

POLAND
Fall In Love With Warsaw 810

Top Summer Destination 510
Old cities Revisited 11/08
New Found Power • 04/ 08
Gdansk • 05/ 07

Krakow • 02/06

PORTUGAL
Azorean Journey 0111
What’s New in Portugal? 9/10
Invests for Tomorrow 10/09
Heritage Travel 1/09
Affordable Luxury • 07/07
Hosts Wine Tasting • 10/07

Out of Lisbon • 11/07
ROMANIA
Town and Country 11/09
CEE Round up • 03/08

Great Value • 06/06
RUSSIA
Siberia and the Trans-Siberian: The Mother of Rail Rides 07/09
St. Petersburg • 07/08
W inter Festivals • 11/07
St Peterburg • 02/ 07

SCOTLAND
Scotland's Spirit • 12/07
Glasgow with Style • 0706

SLOVAKIA
CEE Round up • 03/08
10 Reason to Visit • 10/04
SLOVENIA
CEE Round up • 03/08
SPAIN
Road to Santiago 3/10 Cover
Valencia Shimmers 11/09
Barcelona & Costa Brava
Discover Galicia 1/09
Barcelona 12/08
Great Off Season Value 10/08
Andalusia (Cover) • 08/08
Malaga's Culture• 05/ 08

Zaragoza • 01/08

Iberia's Capitals • 12/07
Prado's Debuts • 11/07
Cutting Edge Madrid • 08/ 07
Valencia • 04/ 07

SWEDEN
Scandinavian Smorgasbord 810
SWITZERLAND
Eye on Premium Prize 7/09
Cultural Lavaux • 02/08
Basel, Fribourg • 09/ 07
Basel Quietly Classy • 05/ 07
Scenic Postbus • 01/ 07

TURKEY
Cave Hopping in Cappadocia
Turkey’s Treasures 12/09
Seductive Istanbul 5/09
Hideaway 'St. Tropez' 11/08
Land of Sunrise • 05/ 08
Endless Mysteries • 07/ 07

UKRAINE
Top Ten Sights • 07/ 07

LATIN AMERICA
Round Up Feature
Live The Dream 1210
S. & C America • May 2008
ARGENTINA
Summer Escapes 0111
Maté to Malbec 810
24 Hrs in Buenos Aires 12/09
From A to C • 11/07
Learning to Tango • 10/05

BELIZE
Accessible Inland/Island Vacations 810
Belize Cruises 1/10
Heritage Groups • 02/08
Family Adventure • 07/ 07

BOLIVIA
May 2008
BRAZIL
Big, Fat Party in Brazil 10/09
Heart & Soul • 08/08
Bossa Nova Beaches • 03/08
Carnival • 09/07
Agent's Bargain • 05/ 07

CHILE
Comunas to Cordillera 710
Atacama Desert Gets Hotter 3/10
Chilean Surprises 11/09
From A to C • 11/07
Isla Negra • 07/0
6
COLOMBIA
Islas del Rosario 5/10
Cartagena Day Trips 08/09
Takes Giant Leap • 12/06
COSTA RICA
Natural Wealth 9/10
Eco Tourism at the Source7/09
Green Pot of Gold • 07/08
T he Greening • 10/07
A Front Runner • 03/07

CURAÇAO
Down Under • 04/ 07
ECUADOR & GALAPAGOS
Best of Both Hemispheres 710
Visiting Paradise 08/09
Secret Pacific Coast 3/09
Ever Changing 11/08
Traveling Mindfully • 01/08

Fragile & Focused • 08/ 07

EL SALVADOR
New World (Cover) • 11/ 07
GUATEMALA
Meet me at the fountain 12/08
Land of everlasting Spring 05

HONDURAS
Hello to Honduras 2/05 Cover
May 200
8
MEXICO
Colonial Mexico 10/10
Fulfilling Your Basic Needs 6/10
The Soulful Side 12/09
Los Cabos for Luxurious Adventure 7/09
Hotel Chains 12/08
Uncommon Retreats • 0708
Report from Tianguis • 6/08
Puerto Vallarta • 12/07
Yucatan Glory Days • 07/ 07
Yucatan Peninsula • 05/ 07

NICARAGUA
May 2008 Round Up
Natural Beauty • 01/06

PANAMA
Growth Spurt • 0/ 07
Boca del Toro • 05/06

PARAGUAY
May 2008 Round Up
PERU
Amazon Odyssey: 11/10
Ancient Powers • 0908
Machu Picchu • 4/ 08
Festivals • 04/ 07

URUGUAY
May 2008 Round Up
VENEZUELA

May 2008 Round Up

THE MIDDLE EAST
DUBAI
Dubai’s Shifting Reality 3/09
EGYPT
Enduring Appeal 12/10
Beyond the Pyramids 810
Ancient Times, Modern World 4/10
Tourism Growth 12/09
Captivating, Affordable 12/08
Gaining Marketshares • 08/08
The Future is Now • 4/ 08

Touring • 11/07
Alone & Neighbors • 6/ 07
Temple Trekking • 7/06

ISRAEL
COVER: Negev Desert 12/10
Acre’s Old City 10/10
Exploring The Eco-Way
Israel Young and Old 11/09
Return to Little Screen 11/08
Spotlight on Haifa • 09/08
Sweet Secrets • 6/08
Eilat in Winter • 3/08
Beyond the Bible Belt • 1/ 08
Wine Routes • 11/07
Beyond Spiritual Ties • 9/ 07
Promises & Potential • 5/ 07

JORDAN
Plans for Next Millennium 7/09
New Sporting Life 3/09
The Royal Way... • 2/ 08
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Oman–An Arabian Odyssey 910
Dubai Sands & Seas 12/08
Business in Dubai • 2/ 07
US

CANADA, HAWAII
ROUND UP SPAS
Dude Ranch Summer Deals 5/10
When Healing is More than Skin Deep
1/10
ALASKA
Fairbanks • 02/ 07
CALIFORNIA
Napa & Sonoma Wine Country 910
San Francisco • 01/ 08
Los Angeles • 01/ 07
CANADA
72 Hours in Montréal 710
Discover Quebec 7/09
Canadian Rail • 02/ 08

COLORADO
Vail’s Green Approach • 10/08
Supreme in Snow • 01/ 08

DISTRICT of COLUMBIA
Perfect Weekend in DC 5/10
Gaylord National Park 11/08

FLORIDA
Orlando’s Attractions
Orlando’s Eternal Appeal 11/09
Orlando • 09/08
Naples • 03/ 08

Palm Beach • 11/07

HAWAII
Star Studded Courses • 04/ 08
Aloha Appeal • 08/ 07

LOUISIANA
New Orleans Child’s Play 8/09
New Orleans • 05/ 08
MAINE
Northeast Foliage 810
MAUI

Unforgettable Maui 5/09
NEVADA
Las Vegas, New & Renewed 6/10
Las Vegas • 04/ 08
Mandalay Bay • 12/07

Downtown Las Vegas • 07/ 07

NEW YORK
New York Deals 12/09
Big Apple Waterfalls • 08/08
TENNESSEE
Nowhere but Nashville 070
WASHINGTON
San Juan Island Adventure 11/10
WISCONSIN

Scenic Vacationland 1/09

CRUISE
ANTARTICA

In style in Antartica • 02/ 08
ASIA
China’s Heavenly River With Viking River Cruises 12/09
Yangtze River Rises to Star Status 08/09
China Yangtze River • 01/ 08

Viking River Cruises • 12/07
The South Pacific • 06/ 07

EUROPE
Ships & Itineraries Update 5/10
River Cruising • 03/08
Louis Cruises • 02/08
River & Canals • 03/07
The Danube • 01/07

LATIN AMERICA
Cruising Latin Beat • 11/07
WORLWIDE
Oasis Overtakes the Seas 1/10
Celebrity’s Solstice 1/09
Short & Sweet 09/08
High Seas Holiday • 09/07

SPECIAL INTEREST • SKI
WORLDWIDE

Passion for food 05/07
GOLF
Off Shore Courses • 10/07
RAIL
Europe Rail Travel 6/08
SAFARIS
African Safaris 3/10
African Safaris 6/08

SKI
Skiing the Northeast 12/10
Best US Ski-Cations Without the Crowds 11/09
Colorado • 01/ 08
Snow in right places • 12/ 07
Western USA • 9/07


December 2012 FEATURE

Norway’s City and Coastal Splendor

By Monique Burns

Tour boats wend their way through clear blue waters framed by sheer granite peaks, their velvety green slopes etched by cascading waterfalls, and covered with wooden farmhouses and churches, and grazing cows and horses. Norway’s western Fjord Country - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - is Scandinavia’s number-one visitor attraction. But it’s not Norway’s only attraction. In Oslo, Scandinavia’s sunniest capital and one of Europe’s prettiest, stylish restaurants, boutiques and architectural landmarks like Renzo Piano’s six-month-old Astrup Fearnley Museum grace an ever-expanding waterfront. In Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city and gateway to the fjords, first-rate cultural offerings coexist with vestiges of the Vikings and 14th-century Hanseatic League cod traders.
Though the Gulf Stream keeps Norway’s ports ice-free year round, come in spring, summer or early fall. On a week-long visit, spend three days exploring Oslo, two days in Bergen and a day on Fjord Tours’ famous “Norway in a Nutshell” tour, a rollicking adventure climaxing in a dramatic fjord cruise. Or take Fjord Tours’ two-day “Hurtigruten & Norway in a Nutshell” excursion, including a one-day coastal cruise aboard Hurtigruten, the storied Norwegian line that celebrated its 120th anniversary in 2012. If you’re planning a two-week visit to Norway, add Hurtigruten’s six-day classic coastal fjord cruise, from Bergen to Kirkenes near the
Russian border.

Capital Charms of Oslo
For the 7 ½-hour flight to Oslo, SAS, the Scandinavian national carrier, departs regularly from Newark’s Liberty International Airport. From Oslo’s international airport, it’s a 19-minute ride on the sleek, silver Flytoget airline express train to Central Station, on the city’s east side. A short walk away, check into the Thon Hotel Oslo Panorama, steps from the waterside Opera House, a 2008 landmark whose modernistic roof visitors climb, like a glacier, for fabulous views of the harbor and the Oslofjord. Part of Norway’s largest hotel chain, the Thon Hotel Oslo Panorama has contemporary rooms, a pretty brick-walled courtyard, and a bright white breakfast room whose offerings include Norwegian favorites like herring and smoked salmon. Spring for an apartment-like suite with a spacious living room, a fully stocked kitchenette, a separate bedroom and a bath, and a balcony overlooking the Oslofjord. Doubles, with breakfast, start at 1,350 Norwegian Krone (about $240).
At the head of the Oslofjord, mere miles from the North Sea, Oslo has always had close links to the waterfront. But recent development projects are turning the waterfront trendy. Near the Thon Hotel Oslo Panorama, the new Bar Code neighborhood, or Opera District, debuts in 2015 with restaurants and boutiques as well as office towers. For now, the waterfront buzz is west in harborside Tjuvholmen.
On a leisurely 15-minute stroll west from your hotel along Rådhusgata, you’ll pass 13th-century stone Akershus Fortress, and soon arrive at the harbor where classic wooden sailing ships bob in the Oslofjord’s sparkling blue waters. Peek at the murals inside City Hall, a Functionalist-style brick building that hosts the Nobel Peace Prize Ceremony every December 10. Next door, purchase a 24, 48 or 72-hour Oslo Pass, offering free city transportation, and admission to more than 30 museums
and attractions.

A few steps away, in the high-tech Nobel Peace Center, enter an electronic “forest” of Nobel Laureates with their photos and words of wisdom, and use an interactive wall to learn about past honorees, including U.S. Presidents Teddy Roosevelt, who won in 1906 for negotiations ending the Russo-Japanese War, and Barack Obama, whose work in international diplomacy earned him the prize in 2009.
Watch out for bicycles and the city’s blue-and-white trams as you follow the waterfront’s curve west to Aker Brygge, a harborside complex of 40 restaurants and 70 shops. Just beyond, in the new Tjuvholmen district, contemporary steel bridges span romantic canals. The Astrup Fearnley Museum, Norway’s most important collection of contemporary art, opened this past September in a stunning glass, steel and wood building by star architect Renzo Piano. Featuring a unique double glass roof, the building is divided in two by the Oslofjord’s waters. Outside there’s a beach and a sculpture garden.
Next door, a new six-star boutique hotel is filled with contemporary Norwegian art and design. All 120 rooms have French balconies, but the best room in the house is the Oslo Suite with a rooftop terrace overlooking the fjord. Opened in January, the new hotel is called The Thief, a reference to the days when this waterside quarter was a haven for thieves and other reprobates. Rates start at $370. If you’re in the area for dinner, head to the upscale seafood restaurant Tjuvholmen Sjømagasin, with its contemporary gray and white dining room, to savor Norwegian appetizers like minke whale with parsnips and entrees like cod-like saithe, or pollock, in beet-root sauce.

Explore and discover
There’s plenty to explore out on the wide blue breast of the Oslofjord. But first amble north of the waterfront to the heart of Oslo. Strolling west along Karl Johansgatan, Oslo’s busy main shopping street, you’ll pass 17th-century Oslo Cathedral. Across from the yellow-brick Parliament, with its semi-circular façade, have coffee, tea or open-faced shrimp sandwiches in the venerable Grand Hotel, where President Obama stays when visiting Oslo, and where a small marble-topped table with a hat and gloves recalls another famous regular, the great Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen.

Farther west, Ibsen is remembered with a statue outside the National Theater, a block from the elegant Hotel Continental whose cozy bar is adorned with sketches by Norway’s most famous artist, Edvard Munch, whose 150th birthday is being celebrated throughout 2013. At the grand yellow-and-white Royal Palace, head south to the Ibsen Museum, the apartment where the dramatist spent the last 11 years of his life. Or head north to the light-filled National Gallery. Don’t miss the dramatic 19th-century landscapes and fjordscapes of J.C. Dahl, or the realistic portraits and seascapes of Christian Krohg. The museum’s highlight: an entire room devoted to more than a dozen works by Edvard Munch, including “The Scream,” and the sensuous “Madonna” with a red halo.

The Oslofjord lends much to Oslo’s beauty, but so do the surrounding woodlands and mountains. For a taste of Oslo’s sylvan splendor, take a tram west to Vigeland Sculpture Park. There you can stroll through 80 acres of tree-shaded lawns dotted with fountains, bridges, and Gustav Vigeland’s stunning bronze Functionalist sculptures of men, women and children, including the humorous “Little Angry Boy.”
Back at Oslo’s waterfront, board one of the authentic wood sailing vessels of Båtservice, whose “hop on-hop off” mini-cruises leave from wharves near City Hall, or from near the Opera House, where longer cruises also depart for Denmark’s Copenhagen and Frederikshavn. On Bygdøy Island, there are six museums, including the Holocaust Center in the former villa of Nazi collaborator Vidkun Quisling. Other museums celebrate Norway’s seafaring tradition. The Viking Ship Museum houses amazingly well-preserved Norse longboats along with sleds, jewelry and other artifacts. Nearly bursting through the Fram Museum’s roof is the massive red-and-black polar ship Fram, which Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, first to reach the South Pole in 1911, used on several expeditions. The Kon-Tiki Museum displays Thor Heyerdahl’s 1940s raft, which sailed 5,000 miles across the Pacific Ocean, and his Ra II raft, which was made of bulrushes from Bolivia’s Lake Titicaca, and sailed across the Atlantic from Morocco to Barbados.

Bergen: Gateway to
the Fjords
Sailing through the Oslofjord will certainly whet your appetite for a longer cruise. From May through September, Fjord Tours, which celebrated its 30th anniversary last year, offers the day-long “Norway in a Nutshell” train excursion and fjord cruise. Though you can begin the tour in Oslo, start in Bergen, spending a day or two exploring this UNESCO World Heritage City on the western fjords. From Oslo, it’s an easy 50-minute SAS flight to Bergen, then a short ride downtown on the Flybussen airport bus.
Of nearly 30 hotels in Bergen, the most elegant is the Clarion Collection’s Hotel Havnekontoret. Built in 1916 as office headquarters for shipping magnate Thorvald Halvorsen, the grand old building has elegant public rooms, including a domed hall adorned with frescoes of web-footed Pegasuses and other mythological beasts, and tastefully furnished guest rooms, including the Veidung Suite, Halvorsen’s former office graced with the ornate marble fireplace he brought from Milan. In the downstairs dining room, guests help themselves to breakfast and light-supper buffets, and make afternoon tea and crepe-like Norwegian pancakes with preserves, including lingonberry jam, a Scandinavian favorite.

At the confluence of several fjords and surrounded by seven mountains, Bergen is strikingly beautiful. But its mountainous coastal setting, with moisture from the Gulf Stream, ensures that it’s almost always rainy. Even on sunny days, carry an umbrella, and, in early spring and fall, a hat and scarf. Before setting out, be sure to pick up the 24 or 48-hour Bergen Card for free or discounted admission to museums, restaurants, sightseeing tours and transportation. It’s available online at the city’s website, or in the Tourist Information Office at Strandkaien 3 near the Fish Market.

Outside the Hotel Havnekontoret, make a right, and you’re steps from 13th-century stone Håkon’s Hall, built by King Håkon Håkonsson. Visit the Great Hall with its tall arched windows, vaulted wooden ceiling and royal high table. Turn left instead, walk past the 263-room Radisson Blu Royal Hotel next door, and you’re in Bryggen, the wharf-side enclave where 14th-century Hanseatic League merchants prepared cod for trade. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bryggen is lined with narrow yellow, red and white gable-roofed clapboard houses where Norwegian sweaters, handmade Christmas ornaments and other souvenirs are now sold.
Between Bryggen’s reconstructed houses are narrow alleys with shops like Blonder & Stas, where you’ll find handmade embroidery, and restaurants like Enhjørningen, a cozy upstairs dining room where diners feast on all manner of seafood, including starters like smoked whale carpaccio and mussel soup, and entrees like herb-fried angler fish, cod au gratin, and fresh crab served “as much as you like.” A couple of blocks away, at the Hanseatic Museum, see exhibits on the life of a
typical merchant.

From there, it’s only a few blocks to the Fløibanen funicular, where Scandinavia’s only cable railway whisks you to the top of Mt. Fløyen in seven minutes. In addition to stunning views of Bergen’s fjords and mountains, there’s a restaurant, café, gift shop and playground. From mid-June to mid-August, there’s also free canoeing on the summit’s Skomakerdiket Lake.
East of the Fløibanen, the area around Bergen’s wharves are filled with stalls selling fresh fish, caviar and other delicacies. In the covered, open-air Fish Market, some fishmongers’ stalls offer fish chowder, fish cakes and other fare. Have an inexpensive lunch here, or backtrack to Bryggen for Bergen’s signature dish, creamy fish chowder crammed with fish and shellfish, in mural-adorned Bryggeloftet & Stuene.
East of the Fish Market, Bergen’s art museums are ranged around pretty Lille Lungegårdsvann Lake: the Permananten with decorative arts, the Bergen Kunsthall for contemporary art, and the Bergen Art Museum, with works by Munch and Norwegian artists like Nikolai Alstrup, known for his colorful Fauvist-like landscapes. Nearby is Grieg Hall, home of the Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra. If you’re a music buff, take the Turistbuss Bergen or the Bergen Light Rail to lakeside Troldhaugen, the sprawling 1880s wood-frame house where Edvard Grieg, Norway’s most famous composer, worked every summer and where he’s now entombed.

After a day or two in Bergen, it’s time to embark on your “Norway in a Nutshell” tour. First, take the morning Bergen Line train on a two-hour journey east to Myrdal, whose mountains shelter herds of wild reindeer. There you’ll switch to the Flåm Railway, Northern Europe’s highest railway, for a 12-mile journey over gorges and ravines, and through countless tunnels, while hurtling downward to Flåm. Once there, you’ll board a tour boat, with an open top deck and a restaurant, for a two-hour cruise through the Aurlandsfjord and the Nærøyfjord, narrow arms of the Sognefjord, Norway’s longest and deepest fjord. But the adventure isn’t over yet! From Gudvagen, a bus takes travelers along the Stalheimskleiva Road through a series of 13 steep mountain switchbacks offering views of the rushing Stalheimsfossen and Sivlefossen waterfalls. Finally, arriving in Voss, you’ll take the Bergen Line east to Oslo, a 5 1/2 -hour journey that brings you back to the city in the late evening.

After an entire day in the Norwegian countryside, you might expect Oslo to feel noisy and cramped. But this is Norway, where even a capital city, with its great cultural and historic resources, and its many restaurants, hotels and boutiques, is built to human scale, and the beauty of fjord, mountain and open sky blends seamlessly with brick, stone and mortar. That’s one reason, however long or short your stay in Norway, you’ll return home refreshed, revitalized and totally at peace with the world.
For flights to Oslo, Norway’s capital, contact SAS (www.flysas.com), the Scandinavian national carrier. For visitor information, log on to www.visitnorway.com www.visitoslo.com and www.visitBergen.com