NOVEMBER 2011 COVER FEATURE & EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW

Turkey’s Elegant Aegean
By Monique Burns
With broad stretches of blue sea, calm turquoise bays where stylish mega-yachts shelter beside colorful old fishing boats, exclusive seaside resorts and sleepy bougainvillea-draped villages, Turkey’s Aegean Coast draws thousands of sun seekers each year. Home to some of the Mediterranean’s most famous UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it’s also a mecca for culture and history buffs.
Turks account for most Aegean traffic, followed by Germans, Russians and other Europeans. But officials are eager to welcome more Americans. “Istanbul immediately comes to mind for most American travelers,” says Ms. Ebru Ejder, director of the Turkish Culture and Tourist Office in New York. “But we want to encourage North Americans to extend their visits to other fascinating regions. Travelers to the Aegean Coast can explore the resort towns of Bodrum and Cesme, the matchless archeological wonders of Ephesus and Pergamon, religious sites like the Virgin Mary’s House, and picturesque villages and lively cities.”
The first glimpse of Turkey’s Aegean for many Americans is the southerly city of Kusadasi, which handled over 35 percent of Turkey’s cruise-ship calls in 2010 and is the Mediterranean’s fourth-largest cruise-ship port. For air travelers to Turkey, the usual gateway is the capital of Istanbul, 9-10 hours from New York’s JFK Airport and 150 miles northeast of the Aegean coast. One of the world’s great cities, Istanbul deserves at least two days before you head down the coast.

Two Marvelous Days in Istanbul
Known for its sumptuous five-star hotels, Istanbul also has deluxe boutique hotels. In the Talimhane district, near central Taksim Square, the romantic Central Palace Hotel (www.thecentralpalace.com) has 107 rooms decorated in opulent late-Ottoman style with marble floors, coffered ceilings, burnished wood furnishings, and all-in-one Jacuzzi tubs, showers and steam baths. There’s a fitness center and a cafe that serves healthy Mediterranean dishes like wellness soup with vegetables, pesto and cheese, and salmon in teriyaki sauce. Doubles are priced in the range of $465.
For luxury in a larger package, consider the 458-room Marmara Taksim Hotel (www.themarmarahotels.com) with recently renovated public rooms. Doubles cost about $385. Not far away, two top choices are the 499-room Istanbul Hilton (www.hilton.com) where doubles are priced about $375 and the 388-room Ceylan InterContinental (www.intercontinental.com) where doubles start at $450. In the hills above the Bosphorus, the elegant, 244-room Ritz-Carlton (www.ritzcarlton.com) has doubles starting at $525, while the 497-room Swissotel The Bosphorus (www.swissotel.com), with grand picture windows overlooking the famed waterway, has doubles starting at about $225.
Slough off jet lag with a two-hour Bosphorus Cruise. The next day, visit the city’s most iconic sights. Nearly side by side are the 17th-century Blue Mosque, adorned with thousands of blue-and-white tiles, and sixth-century Hagia Sofia, known for its stunning Byzantine mosaics. At the nearby Grand Bazaar, more than 4,000 shops sell everything from Turkish carpets to stained glass lamps. Not far away, striking red and black calligraphy adorns the recently renovated Suleymaniye Mosque.
Farther west, visit the 5th-century Chora Church with its well-preserved mosaics, then reward yourself with lunch at Asitane (www.asitanerestaurant.com). Here authentic Ottoman dishes—like baked melon stuffed with minced beef, lamb, pine nuts, almonds, currants and rice—are served in a lush walled garden shaded by horse chestnut trees. Lunch for two, without drinks, is about $70.
For dinner, snare a seat at Mikla (www.miklarestaurant.com), one of the city’s top tables. Start with grilled shrimp, or paper-thin raw grouper with Kalamata olives, and then proceed to the main course, perhaps cherrywood-smoked lamb, or monkfish with lemon-and-fennel risotto. Dinner for two, without drinks, is about $105. Before leaving, bid Istanbul farewell with a nightcap on the restaurant’s enormous roof terrace.
Izmir: Seaside Haunts and Jewish Heritage
In summer, the Aegean Coast is crowded with vacationing Turkish families, so plan to go in spring (April or May) or early fall (September or October) when hotel rates are also at their lowest. Die-hard history buffs with two or more weeks to explore the coast can begin in Canakkale, 150 miles southwest of Istanbul. From Istanbul to Canakkale, Turkish Airlines has frequent 55-minute flights. Across the narrow strait of the Dardanelles, or Hellespont, is Gallipoli National Historic Park, whose cemeteries and museums honor Turkish and Allied troops who fought in the World War I Battle of Gallipoli. At Troy, a 35-minute drive south, archeologists have unearthed remnants of nine civilizations, but little remains to mark the famed Trojan War. Travelers with 7-10 days to spare should begin their explorations farther south.
A 55-minute flight from Istanbul, the Central Aegean city of Izmir, Turkey’s third-largest city and its second-largest port after Istanbul, is a frequent cruise-ship stop and a major gateway to the region’s luxury resorts and World Heritage Sites. Plan to spend at least three days in Izmir. A block from the Kordon, Izmir’s broad seaside promenade, ultra-hip My Hotel (www.myhotel.com.tr), has a pop art-style patisserie downstairs and spacious minimalist rooms upstairs, many with kitchenettes. Doubles, including breakfast, are priced in the range of $110.
Two doors away, at the 185-room Movenpick (www.moevenpick-hotels.com), doubles start around $170. A block farther, the 402-room Swissotel Grand Efes (www.swissotel.com) is known for its sprawling tree-shaded courtyard and Amrita Spa & Wellness, judged Europe’s best at the 2011 World Luxury Spa Awards. Doubles start at about $136. Nearby, the 32-story Hilton Izmir (www.hilton.com), reputedly the highest building on the Aegean Coast, has stylish doubles for $177.
Founded as Smyrna by the Greeks in the 1st millennium B.C. and one of the greatest cities in Rome’s Asian Empire, Izmir was ravaged by fire in 1922. Several landmarks survived, including the tile-embossed Konak Clock Tower, built in 1902 to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Sultan Abdulhamid II’s reign, and the 16th-century blue-and-gold Hisar Camii, the city’s largest mosque.
Southwest lies Karatas, the Jewish quarter, whose population once topped 25,000. On Dario Moreno Street, see the whitewashed house of the internationally known Jewish singer. At the end of the street rises the red-brick Asansor, an elevator built in 1907 by wealthy Jewish banker Nesim Levi Bayraklioglu to join Karatas with a hilltop Turkish neighborhood. From on high, savor views of the horseshoe-shaped Gulf of Izmir. Then, lunch or snack at the casual belvedere restaurant Asansor Teras Kafe.
Two blocks away, 1907 Bet Israel Synagogue is a jewel box of dark mahogany columns, crystal chandeliers and intricately tiled floors. Nestled among the shops of the city’s Kemeralti Bazaar to the northeast, 17th-century Kemeralti Synagogue has a mahogany podium shaped like a ship, a poignant reminder of the journey its original Sephardic congregation made from Spain. The Izmir Tourist Office gives guided Jewish heritage tours every Wednesday ($46). To visit synagogues on your own, contact Izmir’s Chief Rabbinate.
As the sun sets, head back to the Kordon and Konak Pier, the restored 1890 French Customs House built by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame. Now an upscale shopping mall, Konak Pier houses pricey jewelry shops, and designer boutiques like Lacoste, with alligator-emblazoned polos. There are also a handful of excellent seaside restaurants. At Adabeyi, nosh on green and black olives, various hot and cold mezes, or appetizers, then follow with grilled, steamed or fried grouper, sea bass, sole or shrimp. Mezzaluna (www.mezzalunaizmir.com), part of the Turkish chain that includes a New York City outpost, serves well-wrought pasta and pizza. Also at Konak Pier is the more casual Dukkan for burgers and virtually every cut of steak.
Before turning in, take a romantic horse-drawn carriage ride along Izmir’s seaside promenade. Drink in the refreshing sea breeze, known as the imbat, and listen to the gentle sounds of waves, and of live Turkish music emanating from seaside bars.

To Pergamon and Ephesus
On your second day in Izmir, wake early, and don a wide-brimmed hat and sturdy walking shoes. A 1.5-hour drive north along Route D-550 leads to Bergama, gateway to Pergamon, the Eastern Mediterranean’s best-preserved city. Before reaching the hilltop acropolis, visit the Crimson Basilica, an enormous second-century temple built to honor Egyptian gods Isis, Serapis and Harpocrates, and later converted into a Christian basilica.
Three miles away, Pergamon, built in the 8th century B.C., lies largely in ruins. In the 19th century, German archeologists removed many important artifacts, now in Berlin’s Pergamon Museum. Nonetheless, enough remains to convey the former glory of this city, once capital of the Roman Empire and home to 250,000. Don’t miss Trajan’s Temple, with its giant fluted Corinthian columns, and the 10,000-seat theatre, antiquity’s steepest.
A mile and a half below the acropolis is the Asklepion, one of the ancient world’s most famous medical centers. Along with a well-preserved Roman theater, several wells dot the site, including a healing spring where visitors can drink. The 50-foot underground Sacred Tunnel leads to the circular Temple of Telesphoros, or Treatment Center, where patients took mud baths, received herbal treatments and had their dreams analyzed.
Before sunset, backtrack east along Route D-550. About 45 miles before reaching Izmir, stop at the seaside village of Foca, where small fishing boats and large wooden yachts bob in a harbor framed by ocher-colored hills. The waterside main street is shaded by palms and lined with fish restaurants. One of the best is Deniz Balik where dinner for two, without drinks, costs about $80.
Early the next morning, leave Izmir and drive an hour south on Route D-550 to the town of Selcuk, gateway to Ephesus, the Eastern Mediterranean’s best-preserved ancient city. Among the many highlights are the Temple of Hadrian, with its friezes of Fortuna and Medusa, the two-story library of Celsus, antiquity’s third-largest library after Alexandria and Pergamon, and the three-story Grand Theatre, where St. Paul once preached.
After 2-3 hours, follow the crowds to Meryemana, or the Virgin Mary’s House, where it’s believed John the Baptist brought Mary to live out her final years. A major pilgrimage site, the small stone house has been transformed into a chapel with an altar and statue of Mary. Outside, the faithful can light votive candles and fill water bottles from healing springs.
In the nearby hill town of Sirince, lunch on the flower-bedecked terrace of Le Jardin (www.sirincelejardin.com), which serves continental dishes like omelettes and pasta, and Aegean specialties like sevketi bostan, a delectable lamb-and-vegetable stew. Lunch for two, without drinks, is about $36. Afterward, sample apple, mulberry and other fruit wines in any of the town’s 25 tasting rooms.
From Sirince, the Cesme Peninsula, whose tip almost touches the Greek island of Chios, lies about 70 miles west. In the fishing village of Alcati, a trendy windsurfer’s paradise likened to Spain’s Ibiza, bougainvillea-draped cafés and small hotels line cobblestone lanes. For a romantic overnight, Sardunaki Otel (www.sardunaki.com) has 10 comfortable rooms and quirky statuary strewn around its herbal garden. Doubles, with bountiful breakfasts, cost about $105. Komsu Butik Otel (www.komsuotel.com), opened in June 2011, has five rooms. Rates, with breakfast and afternoon tea, start at about $100.
Just west, the town of Cesme, popular with Turkish vacationers, has scores of small hotels. In next-door Ilica, find deluxe digs at the 398-room Sheraton Cesme Resort & Spa (www.sheratoncesme.com), whose acclaimed spa offers thermal mineral baths. Doubles start at $240. Also in Ilica, the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa (www.radissonblu.com), opened in 2010, is known for its Element buffet restaurant and Blue seafood restaurant. Doubles, with breakfast, start at $150.
From there, it’s less than a mile north to the fishing village of Dalyankoy, nestled in a deep-water inlet and known as the “Bosphorus of Cesme.” Several fish restaurants line the village’s recently restored marina. Choose your mezes and catch of the day at Dalyan Restaurant (www.dalyanrestaurant.com) before returning to Izmir, 50 miles west.

Celebrating Bodrum
For international jet setters and well-heeled Turkish families alike, the Aegean’s most famous resorts are the 10 villages along the Bodrum Peninsula, about 175 miles south of Izmir. From Izmir and Istanbul, Turkish Airlines flies to Bodrum International Airport near Milas, about 40 miles from Bodrum city. By bus or car, the Bodrum Peninsula is about a 3 1/2 hour drive from Izmir.
If your curiosity gets the better of you, leave Izmir early and detour about 130 miles (and three hours’) southeast along Routes E87 and 320 to Denizli, gateway to Pamukkale (www.pamukkale.org.tr), one of the planet’s most unusual UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Approach the site through the adjacent city of Hierapolis, whose ancient ruins include a tomb-dotted necropolis, antiquity’s largest cemetery. Before reaching Pamukkale proper, join Turkish families for a swim at the 7th-century Ancient Pool whose 97-degree thermal springs are said to cure various ailments. Beyond is the Pamukkale Museum and beyond that is Pamukkale itself. At this so-called “Cotton Castle,” calcium-rich salts from mineral waters run off the edge of a wide plateau creating saucer-like travertine terraces that appear snow-covered. Join the international throng wading barefoot through the slippery terraces, or find a chair under a nearby pine tree and watch from a safe distance.
From Pamukkale, the Bodrum Peninsula is another 3-4 hours west along Routes 585 and 330. But if you’d rather stay the night, check into the 315-room Richmond Pamukkale Thermal Hotel (www.richmondhotels.com). Less than two miles from Pamukkale, the hotel has well-appointed rooms and a full-service spa that includes healing mineral pools.
With a clear turquoise bay, and whitewashed hotels and condos climbing olive and pine-clad hills, the city of Bodrum has been called the St. Tropez of the Aegean. As peaceful as it looks, Bodrum is a high-energy city with scores of restaurants, bars and hotels, and 24-hour traffic on its palm-lined seaside promenade.
If you stay in Bodrum, seek a quiet refuge in the hills. At the deluxe, 100-room Marmara Bodrum (www.the marmarahotels.com), lush gardens overlook the yacht-filled harbor crowned by the 15th-century Castle of St. Peter, now the Museum of Underwater Archaeology. The hotel has two swimming pools, tennis and squash courts, and a private beach and fish restaurant in nearby Torba village. Prices start at about $185 for doubles. Find similar views, well-decorated rooms, an outdoor pool and lower tariffs at the four-star Hotel Manastir (www.manastirhotel.com). Doubles, with breakfast, are about $150.
Gumbet—with the peninsula’s longest sand beaches—is about a mile southeast of Bodrum. With its own strip of nightclubs and cafes, the village has a reputation for frenetic nightlife. But, in early spring or fall, it’s remarkably peaceful. One of the best all-inclusive resorts here is the 374-room Isis Hotel & Spa (www.isis.com.tr), with a pristine beach and marina, a spa, dive school and tennis courts, several bars and a disco, a main buffet restaurant, sushi bar, and four excellent à la carte restaurants for Turkish, Italian, Chinese and fish dishes. Isis also maintains a five-hole golf course and driving range inland. Double rooms, with large bedrooms, cozy sitting rooms and balconies, are priced at $225.
In the hills of nearby Bitez village, 92-room Doria Hotel (www.doriahotelbodrum.com) is an elegant design hotel with a pool, spa, and a stylish Aegean restaurant with white and aquamarine-blue decor. Guests are shuttled to the hotel’s private beach. Doubles start $160.
Northeast of Bodrum, the village of Torba is considered the peninsula’s toniest. For luxury with a capital “L,” check into Casa dell’Arte (www.casadellartebodrum.com) with 12 upscale suites in a modernistic Roman palace with columns, pools, and more than 4,000 paintings and sculptures by Turkey’s finest contemporary artists. For swimming and sunbathing, a wooden jetty is poised over the sea. Doubles are priced at approximately $400. Next door, the Casa dell’Arte Luxury Family Resort has 37 classy suites, an outdoor pool and beach, and, in summer, a kids’ art school, priced at $215 for doubles.
Golturkbuku village—on the peninsula’s northern coast—is a favorite of well-heeled Turks, American stockbrokers, and Hollywood celebrities like Tom Hanks and Uma Thurman. Right on the beach, the recently renovated Divan Palmira (www.divan.com.tr) has 60 spacious blue-and-white rooms, a full-service spa, extensive gardens and tennis courts. Pricing starts at $265 for doubles. With prices starting at $445, stay in hilltop Ada Hotel (www.adahotel.com), with 14 antique-filled rooms, all with balconies or terraces, in a warren of honey-colored stone buildings. Opening in December in Golturbuku’s hills is ultra-luxe Amanruya (www.amanresorts.com/amanruya), with 36 deluxe cottages in white marble and dark wood, each with a private pool and terrace. The resort also has a 165-foot marble swimming pool, a tennis court, a three-story library, an art gallery, four dining pavilions, a boutique and a secluded beach. Pool terrace cottages cost $1,075.
Travelers who truly “vant to be alone” should consider the palatial, 173-room Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay (www.kempinski.com), on a long secluded beach southeast of Bodrum city. Spacious public areas are done in a tasteful Art Deco style, and there’s a lavish Sixth Senses Spa. Doubles are priced starting at about $176.
Once ensconced in your luxury lair, head for the beach or spa. When the sun goes down, find your way to Bodrum city for a harborside meal and a night of club-hopping. Start at Kuba (www.kubabar.com), shaded by a huge olive tree, then continue to Bar Street for live Turkish music at Veli (www.velibarbodrum.com), contemporary tunes at Hadigari (www.hadigari.com.tr), and a farewell shot of raki at seaside Mandalin (www.mandalinbodrum.com), just below St. Peter’s Castle.
For more information, contact Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com), judged Europe’s best airline in 2011 by SKYTRAX, and the Turkish Culture and Tourist Office at www.goturkey.com, or phone 877-FOR TURKEY or 212-687-2194.

Interview with Ihsan Baytan General Manager of the New York Office of Turkish Airlines

By Ryley Hartt

JAX FAX recently spoke with representatives from Turkish Airlines, the flag carrier of the Republic of Turkey, and recent recipients of three awards from Skytrax. With a commitment to their passengers, THY is now offering more flights, a new class of service and brand new technology aboard their aircraft.

What are some factors for American travelers to consider when choosing an airline that offers direct service to Turkey?
Safety is very important. The fact that our fleet is very young, including the 777s on some of the US routes including NYC, which are practically brand new, means we offer a very comfortable and safe travel experience. We add to that our award-winning service and rich entertainment system. One of Turkish Airlines’ most distinctive characteristics is the fresh, gourmet food prepared on board at 35,000 feet by professional chefs, known as the “Flying Chef” program, available on international flights. Also, we offer great connections to many points beyond our hub in Istanbul. For longer connections, we offer a complimentary city tour of Istanbul including sites such as the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Grand Bazaar. Itineraries vary by day; tours are available via the Hotel Information Desk at Istanbul Ataturk Airport.

How many direct flights are there from the U.S. to Turkey?
There are direct flights from four gateways in the US. From New York, we have 2 daily direct flights right now, for a total of 14 flights per week. This schedule will change for the winter, please check online. From Chicago, we offer daily service, seven flights per week. From Los Angeles we offer five flights per week, and from Washington, DC, six flights a week.
Skytrax recently awarded Turkish Airlines in three categories. Can you tell us what those awards were and what they mean for your company?
The awards we received from Skytrax reflect that travelers all over the world appreciate our service. In 2011, we were awarded Best Airline in Europe, Best Premium Economy Class Airline Seat and for the second year in a row, Best Airline in Southern Europe.

Are there any fleet upgrades or new destinations to report on?
We are definitely considering new gateways, increasing our footprint in the US and showing our commitment to this market. Among the destinations we are considering are Houston, Miami, Atlanta, Boston.

Can you tell us about your new Comfort Class?
Comfort class is Turkish Airlines’ new premium economy cabin class that is configured between the business and economy cabin classes. Comfort Class is available only in B777-300ER flights and it appeals to our economy class passengers who desire an even higher level of comfort. Some specifications of Comfort Class are 46 inches of legroom, and 19.5-inch seat width. The seat configuration is 2-3-2 in a row with easy to access leg rests, which are available with the push of a button under every seat. Personal touch screens are 10.6 inches and there are USB and iPod connections. A PC power receptacle on the center console supplies energy for laptops and similar electrical devices. For this class, expanded menu options are offered and meal tables are located in the armrests and additionally serve as a reading aid. A reading light is available for each passenger.

How soon can passengers expect to have Wi-Fi for long-haul flights?
Turkish Airlines will debut Live TV and connectivity via seatback portal, a first for commercial intercontinental flights. This is made possible through the use of the PLANET IFE Platform, a Global Communication Suite System developed by Panasonic Avionics Corporation. This system will also provide wireless Wi-Fi Internet after full testing and certification.
For more information on Turkish Airlines visit www.thy.com

JULY 2011FEATURE

Turkey: Crossroads of Empires

By Buzzy Gordon

If you can draw a comparison between today’s superhighways and trade routes in the ancient world, then arguably the mother of them all ran through Anatolia in modern-day Turkey. For centuries, this main road connecting Europe with Asia was blazed and widened by conquering armies and caravans laden with prized goods. It is no exaggeration to say that Anatolia—home to Christianity’s earliest churches, stomping grounds of such legends as Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar and route of the final stretch of the famous Silk Road from China—is one of the venerable stages of world history. Fortunately, many fascinating reminders of these compelling annals are still on view for the tourists of today to enjoy.
The obvious place to start an Anatolian adventure is Ankara, a city with a long and unusual history dating back 5,000 years to the Bronze Age. In the centuries since, it has been a seat of the Hittite, Persian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires—to name but a few. And for a brief, remarkable interlude between the Greeks and Romans, Ankara was an isolated, far-flung outpost of the Celtic civilization, which now survives thousands of miles away in Ireland and Wales.

What’s in a Name
The name Ankara is more familiar than most might realize: it is a variation of Angora, a local, longhaired breed of cat, rabbit and goat. The wool of the latter is the very popular mohair, making Ankara a great place to buy a sweater. Other items to shop for here include intricately fashioned copper (watch the artisans at work on the street of copper workers), kilim rugs, carpets, antiques and embroidery.
Above all, however, it is the sweeping pageant of history that lends grandeur to Anatolia and Ankara, Turkey’s capital and second largest city (after Istanbul). Construction of the imposing Ankara Citadel began in Roman times, while the Byzantines and Seljuks added notable examples of their distinctive architectures to the fortress area. A number of restored traditional homes in the vicinity have been transformed into atmospheric restaurants where diners can enjoy gourmet Turkish cuisine, starting with an astounding selection of mezze (appetizers), progressing through main courses of kebaps (grilled skewered meats) or rice pilafs, and culminating in sweet desserts of baklava (crispy leaves of phyllo dough stuffed with nuts and honey) and lokum (the rosewater-flavored chewy candy known outside the country as “Turkish delight”).
Other sights not to be missed in the city are the Temple of Augustus and Rome on the ancient acropolis (built in Jesus’ lifetime); the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations housed in an old, beautifully restored bedesten (covered bazaar) and containing a priceless collection of Hatti, Hittite, Phrygian, Hellenistic, Roman and Lydian treasures; the large Kocatepe Mosque featuring classical Ottoman design with four minarets; and the striking Ataturk Mausoleum, the final resting place of the father of modern Turkey.

Central Anatolia (Cappadocia)
Southeast of Ankara lies Cappadocia, where volcanic eruptions millions of years ago spewed deposits that have eroded into countless spectacular pillars known as fairy chimneys—creating a unique, other-worldly landscape. Incredibly, the inhabitants of this region in the first millennium CE carved houses and churches out of the soft rock formations, creating entire underground cities. Some 40 (out of more than 200) of these troglodyte communities contain three or more levels of underground structures, connected by miles of tunnels. Derinkuyu, the largest habitable underground city, and
Kaymakli, which has a church with a nave and two apses, are two of the best examples of subterranean cities open to visitors.
Cappadocia’s topographical distinctness—along with the Goreme Valley—now constitute a UNESCO World Heritage site. (UNESCO has similarly recognized another major site in Central Anatolia: the ruins at Hattusa, former imperial capital of the ancient Hittite kingdom, where archaeological excavations of this “City of Temples” revealed a pair of sphinxes.) Goreme became a monastic center when early Christians sought underground refuge (literally) from Roman persecution. Today, the Goreme Open-Air Museum showcases homes and pigeon dovecotes carved directly into rock formations and monasteries cut into remote, virtually inaccessible cliff faces, as well as ancient Christian sanctuaries decorated with superb Byzantine frescoes whose colors have been remarkably well preserved.

Southern Anatolia
Christianity entered Asia Minor and then spread onward to Europe and the rest of the world from the Holy Land via Antioch and Tarsus, southern Anatolian port cities that are mentioned in the Bible (the latter even in the Old Testament, as the place where the prophet Jonah was fleeing when he was swallowed by the whale; Daniel is said to be buried there). In fact, St. Peter himself came to Antioch, once the third mightiest city in the Roman Empire, and reportedly preached in a cave belonging to native son Luke, the evangelist who wrote the Gospel bearing his name. Together, they converted the first non-Jews (Gentiles) and called them Christians, thus coining the term that came to define one of history’s great religions.
Today, in addition to the actual cave considered to be the world’s first church, Antakya (the city’s modern name) boasts the country’s finest collection of Roman mosaics. The manufacture of silk has also been a local industry here since the days of the Silk Road.
Tarsus, meanwhile, is the birthplace of the Apostle Paul, who is credited with spreading Christianity throughout the eastern Mediterranean. Among the historical monuments here are St. Paul’s Church and Well and Cleopatra’s Gate, where the fabled Queen of Egypt entered the city with Marc Anthony in 41 B.C.E.
Perhaps the most popular tourist attraction in the region, however, is more closely connected to Islam. The Mevlana Museum in Konya is the mausoleum of Rumi, founder of the Mevlevi order of Sufi mystics, best known for their practice of active meditation/worship in the form of spinning. Visitors can observe these “whirling dervishes” in action during an annual festival held here every December.
The Silk Road also passed through Konya (formerly Iconium), famous for its Turkish carpets that have been exported to Europe since the Renaissance era. In the city’s outskirts are the remains of one of the oldest cities ever discovered, rivaling those of Jericho, from 8,000-9,000 B.C.E.
An underexplored area just southeast of Konya is the Region of 1001 Churches, a picturesque land of gently rolling foothills in the shadows of the majestic Taurus Mountains, where 4th-century complexes of churches, chapels and monasteries were built on top of Hittite foundations. Particularly extraordinary is the Byzantine ghost city and necropolis of Manazan, where cave dwellings and cemeteries were carved entirely into sheer rockface.
For more information about travel to Turkey visit the Turkish Ministry of Tourism at www.tourismturkey.org or www.goturkey.com

MAY 2011 FEATURE

Turkey’s Aegean Coast – The Best of the West

By Monique Burns
Indented by countless coves, inlets and bays, and studded with more than a dozen peninsulas, Turkey’s 300-mile Aegean Coast has drawn adventurers and vacationers since time immemorial. Today’s pleasure-seekers enjoy pristine beaches lapped by clear blue waters, cities with lively bazaars and laid-back fish restaurants, and legendary attractions like Ephesus and Troy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Çanakkale
At the narrow entrance to the Dardanelles, 200 miles southwest of Istanbul, lies Çanakkale, gateway to the Aegean. Here, where the Sea of Marmara and the Aegean meet, are seaside promenades lined with hotels, restaurants and cafés. The Çanakkale Archaeological Museum houses finds from ancient Troy and elsewhere. Two 15th-century fortresses guard the strait’s European and Asian sides—Kilitbahir and Çimenlik—with a World War I military museum found on the latter. Just north, on the Gallipoli Peninsula, the Historic National Park’s monuments, cemeteries and memorials honor 500,000 soldiers who lost their lives here. A short ferry ride west, in Gökçeada, Turkey’s largest island, age-old monasteries thrive among olive groves, grapevines and unspoiled beaches.
Ancient Troy
Lying in utter ruin, the storied city where the Trojan War was fought eons ago remains the stuff of legend. It takes only a little imagination to see the mossy stones and conjure up visions of Paris and Helen, Achilles and Hector. A UNESCO World Heritage Site first excavated in 1870, Troy contains the ruins of nine separate cities, dating from 3,000 BC to the 1st century. Among the ruins of a temple, theater, various city walls and house foundations is the Skaean Gate, where Hector fought his last battle with Achilles. On-site is a huge replica of the Trojan Horse. Anyone who thrilled to the 2004 Brad Pitt film, Troy, or read Homer’s Iliad will enjoy a visit here just as Alexander the Great did.

Bergama (Pergamum, Pergamon)
Leaving Troy and heading southeast toward Bergama, visitors pass the Gulf of Edremit, the “Olive Riviera.” Amid the region’s resort towns, beaches and thermal springs is Kaz Daği National Park, where the world’s first beauty contest was held between the goddesses Aphrodite, Athena and Hera. By giving the golden apple to Aphrodite, Paris won the love of Helen, setting off the 10-year Trojan War. Ancient myths are a good introduction to Bergama, also known as Pergamum or Pergamon. About 20 miles southeast of Ayvalik, where ferries leave for the Greek isle of Lesbos, and 17 miles northwest of the cruise-ship port of Dikili, Bergama is a top archeological site. In the Upper City are temples of Dionysus and Trajan, a library, a theater, a huge altar dedicated to Zeus, a gymnasium, and an agora, or marketplace. In the Lower City, an early sanctuary of Asclepios, god of health, was later converted into a Byzantine basilica.

Izmir
About halfway down the coast is Izmir, Turkey’s third most populous city and its second-largest port after Istanbul. Built in 3,000 BC and known as Smyrna, Izmir was once home to Greece’s greatest poet, Homer. Today, visitors see handsome palm-shaded promenades lined with seafood restaurants and lush horizontal terraces on surrounding mountain slopes. The city symbol is the ornate late-Ottoman-style Clocktower, built in 1901. Also in Konak Square is the İzmir Museum of Archaeology. In the northerly Alsancak district, site of the ferry terminal and central rail station, are the Atatürk Museum, where the republic’s first president once lived; the Fine Arts Museum with works by Turkish artists, and the Selçuk Yaçar Art Museum displaying 20th-century Turkish art. The 25th International Arts Festival is slated for June 20-July 21, and the 80th International Fair will be held September 8-18. A popular pastime is shopping for the region’s prized raisins and figs at Kemeralti Market. Even more fun is sampling grilled çipura or trança fish at a waterfront eatery along Kordonboyu Promenade.

Çeçme Peninsula
Jutting into the Aegean west of İzmir are two peninsulas in one—the Çeçme Peninsula and the Karaburun Peninsula. To the south, the Çeçme Peninsula’s sandy beaches are bordered by fig groves and verdant fields of aniseed and sesame. At its western tip, about 50 miles west of İzmir, is the port town of Çeçme. Its harbor guarded by a 14th-century Genoese fortress, Çeçme now welcomes weekly ferries from Venice. Holiday-seekers enjoy the many waterfront restaurants; bargain for carpets and leather goods, and hire yachts to explore nearby coastal resorts like Çiftlik with long sandy Pirlanta Beach and nearby Altinkum Plaj (Golden Sand Beach); Ilica, a windsurfers’ haven where the Cakabey Optimist Yacht Race is held each July, and Siğacik, a major yacht center near New Neptune Holiday Village’s acclaimed windsurfing and dive schools. Dotting the Karaburun Peninsula to the north are picturesque fishing villages like Balikliova, Karaburun and Mordǒgan.

Ephesus (Efes)
Farther south, Ephesus, or Efes, is Turkey’s best-preserved ancient city. Antiquity’s most important port, it flourished during Alexander the Great’s reign and later was a Roman capital. One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, it now contains the well-preserved Temple of Hadrian, Library of Celsus, an agora, gymnasium, baths and other structures richly adorned with murals and mosaics. Other major finds are housed in the Archaeological Museum. Ephesus is also an important Christian city, visited by St. Paul who wrote the New Testament Letter to the Ephesians. It is believed that St. John brought the Virgin Mary here after Jesus’ crucifixion and the Meryem Ana, the Virgin Mary’s House, on Mount Koressos (Bülbüldaği) is a popular pilgrimage site. Each year, a commemorative service is held here on August 15. In May, the Ephesus International Festival of Culture & Tourism brings secular revelry to town.

Kuçadasi
Only 12 miles from Ephesus, Kuçadasi is a major resort and cruise-ship port. Pristine beaches are launchpads for scuba and snorkeling trips as well as boat excursions. Active types can take horseback and jeep safaris into Dilek Peninsula National Park, about 18 miles away, to see the rare Anatolian cheetah and the region’s last wild horses. City pleasures abound. There are scores of restaurants, serving fish dishes and traditional Turkish fare, and lively watering holes like Jimmy’s Irish Bar and the huge open-air disco, Ecstasy Bar. The Grand Bazaar has more than a thousand stores and stalls selling sandals, carpets, leather jackets and hand-made jewelry.

Bodrum and Marmaris
Near the coast’s southernmost end is the Bodrum Peninsula with quaint fishing villages and countless “blue flag” beaches noted for cleanliness and clear waters. The city of Bodrum was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, birthplace of the Greek historian Herodotus. Contemporary visitors stroll the long palm-lined waterfront, browse the many art galleries, and shop for leather goods, kilims and blue glass beads. Divers explore reefs and underwater caves in the crystalline waters. Traditional boats like the broad-beamed gulette are used during October’s Bodrum Cup Race. Farther down the coast the Datça Peninsula forms the boundary between the Aegean and the Mediterranean. About 50 miles east is Marmaris, with horse-riding and tennis centers, restaurants serving Turkish fare and fish dishes, and shops selling everything from brassware and embroidery to the local pine-scented honey, çambali. In May, yachtsmen tour the coast during the annual Marmaris Yacht Charter Show.

For more information, contact the Turkish Tourist Office at 877-367-8875, or log on to www.tourismturkey.org