OCTOBER 2011 FEATURE

Sacred Journeys To Peru And Chile

By Maxine Albert

Peru’s fabled city of Machu Picchu, its magnificent ruins perched 8,000 feet above sea level, high in the cloud forest where the Andes meet the Amazon basin, is one of the great mysteries of the world.  Its massive stones fit together flawlessly without mortar, this architectural wonder was built, occupied and abandoned within one hundred years. To this day, no one knows why this extraordinary city, invisible from below, was created and deserted so quickly. Another enigma is how these colossal rocks were carved from the mountain, fit together with such an exactitude and transported.  Dubbed “The Lost City of the Incas,” it was missed by the plundering conquistadors and remained hidden from Western eyes until 1911 when American explorer Hiram Bingham re-discovered it.

This dream-like city, swathed in clouds with the Urubamba River winding below, is accessible by train or foot.  The four-day hike on the stone path of the famous Inca Trail is part trek, part spiritual pilgrimage. You are sharing a path with history to arrive at Machu Picchu as the Incas did, traveling from windswept mountains to lush cloud forest with hummingbirds, wild orchids and stunning archeological sites along the way.
The sensation of walking over the ridge and catching the first glimpse of the mystical city below as the dawn casts its golden glow on the stones is an indescribable thrill of a lifetime. Steep terraces, palaces, temples, gardens, baths and houses miraculously appear to be carved directly out of the hillside embody the sun-worshipping Incas’ reverence for nature and celestial bodies. These structures embody the natural phenomena like the sun, moon, water and earth that were sacred to the Inca. The high energy makes this a powerful meditation place.
The spectacular beauty, majesty and sweep are exhilarating as you explore the ruins and travel back in time to this ancient kingdom of Inca emperors and rituals. Mysteries shroud the actual functions of the stupendous structures.

A few of the can’t miss attractions, of which there are hundreds, include The Chamber of The Princess, Principle Temple and Royal Tomb. Impressively large trapezoidal windows of The Three Windowed Temple frame the mountains.  Temple of The Condor, the fantastic centerpiece, a carving of the head of a condor – has rocks behind it resembling the birds’ outstretched wings. Temple of The Sun, with superb interlacing masonry, is the only round edifice. Two small openings in the tapering tower ingeniously align with the movement of the sun. The famed Fountains, sixteen small waterfalls, are believed to have been used for water worship rituals. Experts still debate whether the main shrine, Intihuatana, was a sundial, sacrificial altar or temple to the mountain god.  The consensus is that somehow this carved rock was used by the priest astronomers to track constellations and calculate the seasons. This beautiful, spiritual stone was most sacred to the Inca. According to shamanic legend, if it touches your forehead, your vision to the spirit world opens. Temple of The Moon, which may have been a goddess site, eerily radiates with moonlight at night. Legend has it that the ghosts of the Incas roam in the foggy ruins.

Besides its architectural genius and spiritual atmosphere, perhaps the most alluring aspect of Machu Picchu is its ambiguous character.
Was this awe inspiring creation a site of religious and ceremonial functions, a citadel, a refuge for Virgins of the Sun, a sanctuary for training brides for the nobility, a retreat for emperors or an Andean Shangri–La? Decide for yourself firsthand and take in the mystifying grandeur of this ancient city in the sky. Machu Picchu, with its immense power and aesthetic splendor is definitely one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.
Magical, evocative and culturally fascinating – Easter Island is like no other place on earth. Most people are drawn here by the strikingly enigmatic moai – the giant monolithic stone statues.  Some four hundred moai, squat figures with oversize heads all carved in the same highly stylized manner, punctuate the island like giant exclamation points. They represent important ancestors, like chiefs and priests, and according to the islanders, transmit their mana, (power), to the living chief of the family.  It is said that they might start walking anytime.
In addition to the moai, Easter Island has extinct volcanoes, silken sands, cobalt blue water and brightly colored fish.  As a special territory of Chile, the population is an intriguing blend of two thirds Polynesian natives and one third Chileans.

The island is a veritable open air museum.  It has been classified as a national park with its ahu (ceremonial platforms), moai, cave paintings and petroglyphs.  Highlights include Rano Kau, a huge volcanic crater and site of the ceremonial village of Orongo; the Rano Raraku quarry where most of the moai were carved; and the awe inspiring Ahu Tongariki which boasts fifteen moai standing side by side, their backs to the sea. This is a spectacular place to watch the sun rise as it illuminates these arresting figures bearing mute testimony to an ancient mystery.
On Easter Sunday 1722, Dutch commander Jacob Roggeveen became the first European to land on the island. His notes of finding a mixed race of dark and light skinned people, some with red hair, still confound historians. He described a heavily tattooed people who worshipped the giant statues and performed ceremonies before them.

It is still a mystery as to how these colossal structures, made of volcanic rock, were transported over rugged terrain and hoisted onto massive platforms without use of wheels or draft animals and without damage.  According to oral history, they walked to their ahu. Many were toppled and have fallen. No one knows why. How such an isolated people created these monuments is amazing. These intriguing mysteries add to Easter Island’s cachet. It is said that the original colonizer, Hotu Matu’a, followed a prophecy and set sail for the island, which he later governed as a shaman. French missionaries found wooden tablets covered with hieroglyphics in 1864.  They have still not been deciphered. To learn about the rich culture and history, visit  Museo Antropollogico Sebastian Englert, north of town, www.museorapanui.cl
To experience the culture at its best, time your visit to coincide with one of the festivals. The premier Tapati Rapa Nui, when the whole island parties, lasts about two weeks in February. This colorful and engaging extravaganza revolves around music, dance and cultural events between two clans competing for ‘Queen of the Festival.’  Body painted males in loincloths race down a volcano, feet first, in a luge like device made of banana tree logs lashed together.  Equally exciting is the triathlon where contestants speed around a volcanic crater lake carrying banana bunches on their shoulders.  Floats and costumed figures celebrate the last day. It’s a great way to immerse yourself in the island’s rich traditions - and get fantastic photos.

MAY 2011 FEATURE

Alternate Routes on the Road to Machu Picchu

By Andrew Crape
The Inca Trail is one of the world’s most highly sought-after treks, a 26-mile hike (typically done in four days) that culminates at Machu Picchu, arguably the most spectacular architectural feat of the late Inca Empire. This year marks the centennial anniversary of its discovery by American explorer Hiram Bingham, and while the trail to the “lost city” is well tracked today, plenty more discoveries await in other parts of the Urubamba Valley.
Arrivals and Making Connections
All international flights entering Peru arrive in Lima, with the majority arriving during the day with no possibility of same day connections to other domestic destinations, forcing travelers to spend at least one night in the city. Although there are attractions that are worth checking out, Lima tends to be a one-day affair for most travelers. Things to do include visiting the Plaza de Armas, Larcomar overlooking the ocean, the Huacapucllana, Inca ruins, museums and Barranco, an older section of the city overlooking the ocean and lined with restaurants.
There are a few flights that arrive in Lima early enough to accommodate same day connections to Cuzco. Try to catch one if possible. The domestic flight is about two and a half hours long with breathtaking views of the Andes and lands in the capitol of the Incan Empire. Cuzco is vibrant city with a very unique blend of Spanish and ancient Incan and Quechuan culture that can be seen in its architecture, artwork and music. The cobblestone streets and sidewalks connecting Cuzco’s many parks and plazas wind through the adobe buildings that the conquering Spaniards constructed on top of Incan stone foundations.
Outside the airport there are registered taxis that will take you anywhere in the city or Sacred Valley. Most of them have a preset rate of $8 for city locations and $80 for the Sacred Valley, but do not hesitate to negotiate the price. The Plaza de Armas is about 10 minutes from the airport and offers a central location for all restaurants, accommodations, and tours in Cuzco and the surrounding area. There are a number of tourist agencies with English speaking guides that offer package deals to all of the archeological sites, The Sacred Valley of the Inca, Machu

Picchu, and the Amazon jungle.
There is an abundance of accommodation options around the center of Cuzco including five star and boutique hotels, along with a range of hostels. San Blas is a neighborhood located just a few blocks above the plaza with narrow winding cobblestone roads and terraced housing as it climbs up the side of the valley. It is also an epicenter for backpackers, artists, and alternative Peruvian culture with many shops, cafes and bars hosting live music almost every night of the week.
Just off the plaza is the Avenida del Sol, which has banks, Internet cafés, artisan markets and convenience stores for all travel necessities. The religious site and museum of Koricancha, or Temple of the Sun, is very sacred for both the Incas and Spanish and demonstrates the fusion of these two cultures. Located nearby is the famous twelve-angled stone, fixed into the foundation of a building. The San Pedro market, a short walk from the plaza, is a local open air market that sells the best and cheapest selection of local produce, meat, cheese, breads, herbal medicines and other local crafts.
Archeological Sites Around Cuzco
Sacsayhuaman is located just above the city, a 30-minute uphill walk or ten-minute taxi ride, and is one of the most spectacular archeological sites in the area. Huge stone terraces with single stones measuring over 25 ft. tall and 70 ft. long are placed together with such precision that even a piece of paper cannot penetrate the joints. It also offers beautiful views of the city and surrounding valley. Other archeological sites in the area include Temple of the moon, Qenqo, Puca Pucara, and Tambomachay.

The Road to Machu Picchu
There are a few different ways to get to Machu Picchu from Cuzco. The most direct way is to take the train from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, the small town located at the base of the mountain were Machu Picchu is located. The other option is to take a bus through the Sacred Valley and then catch the train in Ollantaytambo. Ollantaytambo is also accessible by bus or taxi direct from the city of Cuzco in about 2 hours by taking the road through Urubamba. The town is located at the intersection of three valleys each leading to Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley and the Amazon Jungle making it an important location and site of the Temple of the Winds.
The train from Ollantaytambo can cost anywhere from $500 for the Hiram Bingham first class experience to $65 for the backpacker. The train ride is about two and a half hours and has its first departure very early in the morning to accommodate travelers who only have one day to do a round trip visit to the ruins. Two or three days at Machu Picchu will provide time to experience its wonder in a much calmer fashion. From the town of Aguas Calientes, the drop off point for the train, buses cost around $12 and depart frequently for the 30-minute drive up a switchback road to the site’s entrance. If time permits, try the hike to Huayna Picchu, a steep climb up stone stairways to a ceremonial site offering views of Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains. Only 400 people a day are allowed to make the climb so getting there early is a must. The gates open at 6 A.M.
The town of Aguas Calientes provides little more than a place to eat and sleep after visiting the ruins. However, it does have natural hot springs at the edge of town that can aid in relaxation after a long day. A few of the nicer hotels are the Rupa Wasi Lodge (www.rupawasi.net), Hatuchay Tower (www.hatuchaytower.com), Inkaterra (www.inkaterra.com) and the luxurious Sanctuary Lodge (www.sanctuarylodgehotel.com) located at the entrance of Machu Picchu.

The Sacred Valley of the Incas
The Sacred Valley of the Incas is located about one and a half hours in the bus or one hour in a taxi from Cuzco. It is a beautiful drive that winds through small alpine villages, corn fields and alpaca herds all above 12,000 ft. and then drops back down with views of sacred mountains, some of which are covered in snow year round. Pisaq is a small town full of restaurants, hostels and backpackers, but still manages to hang on to its traditional culture and charm. In the main plaza there is a craft market three times a week and a more elaborate Sunday market that includes agricultural and handmade products from local mountain villages nearby. There are also spectacular ruins accessible on foot or taxi at the top of the mountain at the edge of town. The ruins can also be partially seen from the main plaza. Ollantaytambo is another two hours along the Urubamba River and through the Sacred Valley dotted with small towns, archeological sites and dramatic scenery.
For more information, visit PromPeru at www.peru.info