JUNE 2011 ISSUE

Family Adventures South of the Border

By Buzzy Gordon

Mexico has been getting a bad rap with all the reports of violence in the media these days, but while they are probably not exaggerated, the impression they leave is that much of the country is a dangerous place to visit. This is simply not true: just about all the violence is confined to the areas along the U.S.-Mexican border, and in Mexico’s northern states through which the drug-smuggling corridors run. The rest of the country remains safe for tourists, and that is good news for families looking for affordable fun and adventure in a friendly country.
Veracruz: Archaeology, Adventure and Cuisine
One state that has been off the radar (for tourists and traffickers alike) is very easy to get to and offers much of the diversity that makes for a well-rounded vacation. Veracruz, a Gulf Coast gateway, has it all: fascinating archaeological ruins, Emerald Coast beaches, authentic folklore, terrific food, the highest mountain in Mexico and vast unexplored swaths of rainforest.
Even if not everyone in the family is a history buff, the ancient site of El Tajin is worth a visit. In addition to distinctive pyramids and a unique carving depicting human sacrifice, El Tajin is the home of the famous Voladores de Papantla (the flying Totonacs) who whirl in full regalia in a descending spiral from a 100-ft. high pole. The spectacle is sometimes emulated on a smaller scale in other parts of Mexico, but never duplicated.
Papantla is also host to an annual vanilla festival, in honor of the birthplace of this popular—and now ubiquitous—flavor. The vanilla orchid, cultivated first by the Totonac people, was brought back to Europe by the Spanish conquistadores and the rest is culinary history. The festival is held every year 60 days after Easter, and features not only the Dance of the Voladores but also many other colorful ethnic dance troupes from all over the country. Unusual handicrafts designed from the vanilla vine, sachets of what is reputed to be the most fragrant vanilla in the world, and, of course, gourmet delights are also highlights of the festival. The website www.mexconnect.com lists all of Mexico’s food festivals, along with the many other fiestas and fairs held frequently throughout the year in every part of the country.
As if the lure of vanilla were not enough, Veracruz is also the center of Mexico’s coffee country. A visit to the interactive coffee museum just outside Coatepec takes visitors through the entire tree-to-roaster process, culminating in tasting expertly prepared fresh brew. The nearby city of Jalapa contains an eye-opening surprise: the second-best anthropological museum in all of Mexico, second only to the national museum in

Mexico City.
Of course, one cannot live on coffee and vanilla alone. The region’s famed “a la veracruzana” cuisine does wonders with fish (especially red snapper) and seafood fresh from the Gulf of Mexico. Cocadas (giant golden coconut macaroons) make a great chewy dessert.
Deep-sea fishing, zip-lining and white-water rafting add extra dimensions to a Veracruz vacation. A good place to start planning any adventure in this part of Mexico—not least for their excellent, safety-conscious bilingual guides—is Discover Veracruz Tours (www.discoververacruztours.com).

The Sweeter Side of Tabasco
Right next door, at the intersection of the ancient Olmec and Mayan cultures, is the state of Tabasco, which claims even a greater gift to mankind than vanilla: chocolate. In the days of Montezuma, the Mesoamericans drank the nectar of the cocoa bean unsweetened. European ingenuity took this Mexican crop to the level of irresistible temptation we enjoy today. There are not many places where one can experience chocolate “from pod to bar,” so it’s nice to know there is a cocoa plantation not far away complete with its own chocolate factory. It’s all at Hacienda Cacaotera Jesus Maria (www.haciendacacaoterajesusmaria.com).

Wonders of the Yucatan
Due east is the Yucatan’s famed Riviera Maya, Mexico’s Caribbean coast, and the place to head for the country’s best snorkeling and SCUBA diving. For the most colorful reefs, head offshore to the islands of Cozumel or Isla Mujeres; a good place for younger children to get a handle on snorkeling is within the confines of the Xel-Ha Eco Park, which has a variety of aquatic and other attractions that appeal to adults and children alike.
The shining star of the Yucatan Peninsula and Mayan country is Chichen Itza, named one of the new 7 Wonders of the World. Its mysteries—symbolic of the Mayans’ mastery of astronomy—are particularly on display at the spring equinox. A comprehensive source of information for the entire area can be found at www.travelyucatan.com

Marine Adventures Along the Pacific Coast
Marine adventures of quite a different sort beckon on the opposite side of the country, along the Pacific coast. Whales migrate here during the winter months, and you can get up close and personal with as many as eight different species from aboard whale-watching boats that leave from the main resort cities of the mainland and the Baja California peninsula.
A “one-stop shop” for family adventure is Vallarta Adventures, which operates out of Puerto Vallarta and Los Cabos. In addition to whale-spotting excursions, the company offers a wide range of adrenaline-pumping activities, including zip-lining in the mountain forests of the Sierra Madre range, offroading treks and swimming with dolphins. Visit www.vallarta-adventures.com
Up the coast from Puerto Vallarta lies Mazatlan, Mexico’s “Pearl of the Pacific” and home to Playa Adventure, a compact cultural theme park containing a temazcal—a native sweat lodge, with roots dating back to pre-Hispanic times—and a cenote, a swimming grotto modeled after the naturally occurring phenomena of sinkholes filled with clear, deep waters (and often used in Mayan rites). There is also a 400-foot oceanfront zip-line (suitable for a youngster’s first experience), climbing walls and rappel stations. In November, visitors can participate in the annual release of the endangered baby Golfina Turtles. Playa Adventure is on the grounds of the Playa Mazatlan Hotel, whose concierge can also book a variety of eco-tours, such as bird and whale watching, sea kayaking, and catch-and-release sport fishing.