Greece – Northern Escapades
By Maria Lisella
Some would equate heading straight for northern Greece to forgoing the National Parks and big-name attractions in the U.S. to drive through small Vermont farm towns, the Acadian region, or the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. It might not be the right call for first-timers, but the immense gratification of embedding oneself in another place awaits those willing to get off the beaten path.
For the client who is probably only going to visit once, it’s impossible to go wrong by booking them in Athens and a Greek island or two, all of which make for an attractive package. Frankly, Athens is always a good starting place, if only to take in the new Athenian Temple of Art or the Acropolis Museum, set in the historic Makryianni district, right next to the Acropoli Metro Station. “Monasteraki, with its Sunday flea market and boutique shops, should be on the to-do list,” according to Cally Pappas, owner of Cloud Tours (www.cloudtours.com). Make sure clients spend a Friday or Saturday night in Athens too, when the Gazi, Psyrri and Thissio districts are packed with Athenians in bars, clubs and restaurants through the early morning hours. On Sunday afternoons, they return for an ouzo, hot zucchini-filled meatballs and graviera cheese.
Exploration off the beaten path
For Grecophiles and intrepid travelers ready to get behind the steering wheel and go, recommend a flight to Thessaloniki or Salonika. From there they can drive to Turkish and Bulgarian border towns whose colorful festivals continue to flourish as they have for hundreds of years, follow enchanted drives between Edessa and Naoussa or the Greco-Turkish trio of Kavala, Xanthi, and Komotini. Stacey Papountza, a counselor with Astoria, NY-based Crown Peters (www.crownpeters.com), mentions pre-Lenten events, much like our Fat Tuesday, that take place over three to four days of carnival fires, or boubounes, that light up the towns around Kastoria Lake, believed to have been formed 10 million years ago. Other notable cultural festivals include the “River Party” that takes place in August.
One of the oldest cities in Europe (founded in 315 BC), Thessaloniki is a great base from which to explore. As the capital of Macedonia, it is also Greece’s second city, just behind Athens. One of the things I like best about Thessaloniki is the Museum of Byzantine Culture, a treasure trove of beautifully designed ancient jewelry and the covered market. Sipping silty-bottomed Greek coffee while watching Greeks haggle with each other, eying the dandelion greens, tasting the various fetas, olives and olive oils and enjoying this old world sort of commerce is an experience that cannot be duplicated elsewhere.
Some Greeks, both in the U.S. and abroad, consider Thessaloniki a gourmet city abundant with local specialties and cheap-and-cheerful ouzo taverns rather than haute cuisine or foreign restaurants. Even Greek-Americans agree that the food in Thessaloniki is to die for because its spices reflect its history as a trading point with Asia Minor. For many centuries Thessaloniki served as the military and administrative hub of the region, and as a major link between Europe and the Middle East. Today it remains a major port and an industrial and commercial center in a region that links East to West.
To map out an edible sampling of Thessaloniki’s delights Papountza refers to a website (www.iguide.travel/Thessaloniki/Eating) that outlines the specialties according to season and cites recently visited establishments. Following a short list of sweet spots: Chatzi, famous for its collection of Greek Asia Minor sweets (politika glyka) originating from Istanbul. Terkenlis, known for its variety of “tsoureki,” a sweet bread much like brioche covered and filled with several combinations of chocolates, cream and nuts. Elenidis, considered the place to go for “trigona” (triangles made of sfoglia, filled with cream).
Back in 1997, Thessaloniki was named European Capital of Culture. Today, the Thessaloniki International Film Festival is considered to be one of the most important film festivals in Southern Europe, with a number of notable film makers such as Francis Ford Coppola, Faye Dunaway, Catherine Deneuve, Irene Papas and Fatih Akın taking part. The Documentary Festival, founded in 1999, focuses on global and social issues while the The Dimitria festival, founded in 1966 and named after the city’s patron saint of St. Demetrius, focuses on the performing arts, and exhibitions.
Even the city icon, the White Tower, caught the culture bug in 2006 when it was transformed into a museum. Built in the 15th century as a defense that now lords over a portion of the harbor often filled with sailfish, it was later transformed into a jail for condemned prisoners.
With Thessaloniki as a base, clients may also travel to the Halkidiki Peninsula by small cruise ships for a close up look at the mysterious monasteries of Mount Athos. Yes, women are not welcomed on this sacred self-governed area of Greek territory even today, hence the cruise suggestion—however, male travelers can apply for a visa through the Office of Pilgrims to Mount Athos in Thessaloniki prior to departure so they may actually step inside a monastery. Impulse visits are not possible by anyone.
For more information, contact the Greek National Tourist Organization at 212-421-5777 or www.visitgreece.gr