APRIL 2011 FEATURE
Sugary Strands: Top Beaches of the Caribbean
By Melanie Reffes
He introduces himself as Crazy Guy, although he seems nothing of the sort. Loading his red ferry with people the way a can is packed with sardines, he steers the seaworthy boat from the French Cul de Sac in St. Martin towards a flyspeck rock island that juts up from the sea. Ten minutes later and still ahead of the midday sun, Crazy Guy and his boatload of oiled-up day trippers drop anchor on Ilet Pinel—a petite island framed by a sand tongue that moves to the rhythm of the wind. Yellow quid birds flit about looking for an open bottle of sugary rum and beach chairs invite those hoping to master the fine art of wiling away an afternoon on a Caribbean beach.
Graced with popular strands and undiscovered strands, the Caribbean tempts with some of the finest beaches in the world. Although naysayers may grumble that all beaches look alike, to a Caribbean-phile that would be like saying that Cirque du Soleil is just like any other circus. Says Hugh Riley, Secretary General for the Caribbean Tourism Organization (CTO): “Whether your taste is for tanning, lounging under a palm tree with the newest best-seller or simply indulging in that universal seaside pastime called people watching, everyone needs to lay claim to a beach in the Caribbean.”
As the ferry gets ready to leave Ilet Pinel, Crazy Guy extends his muscled arms to those stepping back onto his red boat. “You found paradise today,“ he declares with infectious enthusiasm, “and you’re invited back tomorrow.”
Sea and Be Seen
Beaches are a plenty on the northwest coast of Jamaica, though Cornwall Beach is one of just a few not attached to a resort. With a gentle surf and easy sloping ocean floor, the beach on the Hip Strip in Montego Bay is favored by locals who know a good shoreline when they see one.
In St. Maarten, the thirty-three beaches that ring the island are tropical perfection. "As the culinary and duty-free shopping capital of the Caribbean, our special appeal extends far beyond the beach, but that's not to say our beaches are anything less than magnificent," said Director Regina LaBega of the St. Maarten Tourist Bureau. “Maho Beach is particularly unique as it's situated right near the end of our airport runway. Travelers come from as far as Japan to photograph the low-flying planes on their mesmerizing approach.”
When astronaut John Glenn spotted the forty Turks and Caicos coral islands from space, he declared “this must be paradise.” In Providenciales, Grace Bay is not only safe for swimming but action-central as the sun melts into the horizon. With sand as fine as baby powder and the sea brilliant shades of teal and azure, the famous stretch frames many of the finest resorts on the island.
Dotted by water sport concessions and bars, Aruba’s Palm Beach is the go-to beach for swimming, snorkeling and sand-castle building. The less adventurous trumpet the photographic virtues of an evening saunter to take in the tangerine sunset.
Snow White
Voted one of the Top 10 Beaches for 2011 by the readers of SmarterTravel, Cas Abao in Curacao can be reached through the gates of the old Plantation Cas Abao. With clear water and a water sport shop, the beach is ideal for a snorkel or a dive—though the daiquiri bar, free salsa lessons and seaside massages are the star attractions.
From the ferry arriving from St. Maarten, the shore is blinding white courtesy of the talc sand that surrounds Anguilla. A two-mile strip of powder, Shoal Bay Beach is the perennial favorite for bars like Uncle Ernie’s, where lobster is grilled to Caribbean perfection.
Pretty in Pink
With its cotton candy-colored beaches, Bermuda is a tempting Caribbean confection with some of the most photographed pink beaches in the world, including Astwood Cove where long tail birds nest in the cliffs.
Pink sand is also the signature hue in Barbuda, the less-trampled little sister to Antigua. Stretching from Spanish Point to Palmetto Point, the rosy beach is fashionable with privacy seekers who can easily stroll from one end to the other without seeing another soul for miles.
On Harbour Island, off the northern coast of Eleuthera in the Bahamas, Pink Sand Beach is a three mile sandy stretch named for its salmon colour that comes from the red plankton that mixes with white coral. Known for its hard-packed sand that joggers appreciate, the beach is also good for celebrity-spotting, as Bill Gates, hockey great Mark Messier and model Elle McPherson have homes on the miniature island.
The Shell Game
In Grenada, Grand Anse is one of forty-five beaches on the island and one of the longest in the Caribbean. Sitting pretty on the sheltered southwest coast, a stroll along the beach is a meet and greet affair with the artisans who sell their handcrafted shell jewelry under shady palm trees.
A short walk from Gustavia, Shell Beach in St. Bart’s is one of the most unique in the Caribbean. Completely covered in seashells, the beach is frequented by trendsetting vacationers who welcome a lazy sunset while sipping a frosty beer at Restaurant Do Brazil, the only eatery on the beach.
Trunk Bay's in St. John, USVI is a sandy quarter-mile stretch and a shell-collectors bonanza. Part of the Virgin Islands National Park, the beach also has chairs, umbrellas, and a shop that rents snorkel gear.
Bare Buns
You know a beach is popular when it has its own website. The longest clothing-optional beach in the Caribbean, Orient Beach in French St. Martin (www.orientbeach.com) is popular with those who toast the sunset with champagne-filled flutes. Cradling a blue cove, the beach is really five beaches—Kontiki, Kakao, Bikini, Waikiki and Coco—each named after a bar with the same name. Club Orient is for naturists, and although their nude beach and Papagayo restaurant are open to the public, be forewarned that the couple next to you may be sans clothing.
In Jamaica, topless tanners hunker down on the clothing-optional beach at Hedonism II on Negril’s 7-mile beach. The risqué resort has both a nude and a prude side depending on one’s preference to wear clothes or not wear them.
Haute & Spicy: A Culinary Tour of the Caribbean
By Melanie Reffes
“Ever since I knew myself,” Donovan Thompson quips in his charming Patois, “my Uncle Taric told me never to tell anyone how we make our jerk chicken.” Grilling over an open fire at Mickey’s Jerk Pit in Jamaica’s Boston Bay, the jerk master who was taught the secret family recipe by his famous uncle, swears it’s the best on the island. “My jerk is more-ish,” he explains using a typical Jamaican expression with the flair of a philosopher. “After you eat it, you want more.”
High atop the coffee-famous Blue Mountains and down the road from the movie-famous Blue Lagoon, Port Antonio is the birthplace of jerk, the centuries-old art of grilling meat slowly over a low fire. Driving east from Kingston, a piquant aroma fills the air as the Boston Jerk Centre with a dozen or so open-air huts comes into view. This is casual dining at its finest. No cutlery, no menus and no frills. As the song goes, there may be a cheeseburger or two in this paradise, but jerk is the national taste treasure.
Whether it’s mouth-burning Jamaican jerk; Grenada’s oil-down stew of breadfruit, spinach, coconut milk and salted meat; or conch fritters from the Bahamas, Caribbean cuisine is a delectable mélange from faraway lands and long ago times. In Aruba and Curacao, an Indonesian ristafeel is popular with locals. Green plums soaked in coriander brine are street treats in Trinidad. In Puerto Rico, asopao stew, similar to paella, is family-style traditional fare.
With more than 7,000 islands making up the region, it’s no surprise its culinary history is peppered with international inspiration. Okra and plantains came with the West African slave trade. Columbus planted sugarcane and the Dutch, Danish, British and French introduced rice and coffee. Potatoes were donated from those arriving from South America and avocados and cocoa came from Mexico.
Table Matters
Running the kitchen with palate-pleasing perfection, Christopher Golding is the new Chef de Cuisine at Sugar Mill Restaurant at Half Moon (halfmoon.rockresorts.com) on Jamaica’s northwest coast. Winning rave reviews, his saffron poached snapper with spur tree pine and pepper jelly is already a big hit with foodies. For a most romantic dinner, book a table under the centuries-old waterwheel.
Through imposing carved Indonesian wooden doors, East in Antigua (www.campbellgrayhotels.com) excels with an Asian-inspired menu from green curry to pumpkin udon noodles. “The raw ingredients are of the utmost importance,” explains Chef Peter Fitz Dreyer. “We can have paw-paw, guava and mangoes on the plate within an hour.”
In St. Kitts, duck confit and rack of lamb are the star attractions at the new La Belle Vie (www.labellevie-stkitts.com), a short stroll from the Marriott. Owner Michel Lerousseau delights both French food aficionados while also introducing tourists to the refined flavors of France.
A Nibble and a Nosh
Next to the bridge at Simpson Bay in St. Maarten, barbecue is de rigueur at Bonita’s Cantina where owners Bryan and Bonny Tyrell cook it low and smoke it slow. “When the bridge goes up,” says Bonny Tyrell, “we serve pork mini-sliders and margaritas to those waiting in their cars for the bridge to come back down.” Specials include the “Pig Out on Monday for a Tenner” (ribs, pulled pork and fries for $10). “Folks don’t have to take out a second mortgage to afford a really great meal here,” adds Bryan Tyrell. Visit www.bonitascantinasxm.com
Rated one of “America’s Best Burgers” by The Wall Street Journal, the Presidente seared in beer is greasy goodness at the Hull Bay Hideaway (www.hullbayhideaway.com) in St. Thomas, USVI. West of Magen Bay and a few yards from the best surf break on the island, chili dogs and buffalo chicken are tops with the hardcore carnivores in the crowd.
Sugar Rules
Desserts are the talk of the town at Oliver’s in the Spice Island Beach Resort (www.spiceislandbeachresort.com) in Grenada, where Head Chef Jesson Church enchants with sinful masterpieces like his dark and white chocolate parfait. ”Jesson works tirelessly to ensure the highest culinary standards for our discerning guests,” said Sir Royston Hopkin, owner, “which is critical to our success as a fully-inclusive luxury resort.” For travel through April 15, an agent-specific “Escape to Grenada” package includes resort credits that can be used at Oliver’s.
On the tiny isle of Montserrat, a guava ice cream cone at Chico’s is a refreshing elixir for the soul. Those with a sweet tooth get their Chico fill at Ponts Beach View Restaurant and the Tropical Mansion Suites.
On the waterfront at Vigie Marina in St. Lucia, Coal Pot (www.coalpotrestaurant.com) is the local favorite for sinful sweets created with flair by Chef Xavier. For dessert, a wedge of pineapple cheesecake (two forks, please) is a must-try.
Bottoms Up
Move over, piña colada. These days, the top cocktail in Puerto Rico is the chichaíto (cheeh-chah-ee-toh), an after-dinner fusion of Palo Viejo rum and anise liqueur that is blended in twenty-five flavors from chocolate and ginger to lemon and coffee. Served in one-dollar shot glasses, the trendy brew is poured at Los 3 Cuernos bar in Old San Juan’s Plaza de Colón.
Healthy yet potent, the beet mojito at the Cabana Bar & Grille in Turks & Caicos goes wonderfully well with a platter of perfectly fried conch fritters. Along Grace Bay revered for its white talc sand and cerulean waves, the sea view patio is all the rage with islanders who never tire of watching the sun set into the horizon. Visit www.oceanclubresorts.com
In St. John, USVI, The Beach Bar along a sandy stretch of Cruz Bay is a magnet for seriously famous megastars like Keith Urban and Kid Rock and a band of regulars who belly up to the bar for Sunday Jazz and Happy Hour. Visit www.beachbarstjohn.com
Reservations Required
April 10 – 16: St. Croix Food & Wine Experience will celebrate its 11th year with gourmet dinners, celebrity chefs and wine tastings. Visit www.stcroixfoodandwine.com.
April 21 – 25: Oistens Festival in Barbados for the best in fresh fish with sides of macaroni pie and plenty of Banks beer. Visit www.visitbarbados.org.
Jammin’ Caribbean Family Holiday Packages
By Melanie Reffes
It may just be the world’s finest family-friendly beach playground. From frequent flights to kid-centric add-ons at hotels and resorts, there are bargains galore on the many islands in the sunny Caribbean. With fruity cocktails for the grown-ups and a dollop of sunscreen for the wee ones, the tropics are the go-to destination for the whole family. “This holiday season is expected to be an improvement over the last couple, but booking windows are expected to remain short,” says Josef Forstmayr, president, Caribbean Hotel & Tourism Association (CHTA) and managing director of Jamaica’s Round Hill Resort. “Families focus on the Caribbean because of the ease of getting to the destination, the welcome they receive and the variety of accommodations and activities for children to enjoy.”
In the north coast village of Oracabessa, Goldeneye will re-open on November 12th after a two-year renovation.
It’s Irie, Mon
For families, Jamaica leads the pack with a slew of fun stuff for the entire brood. “Visitors can revel with friendly locals in the lively activities, indulge in some of the island’s signature holiday dishes, and truly discover the distinctive culture and unbridled spirit of Jamaica,” said Tourism Director John Lynch. Marketing hype aside, an expanding attraction and accommodation sector keeps the prices down while December weather is reliably warm and hurricane-free.
Jamaican Olympic tri-athlete Iona Wynter is on board at GoldenEye (www.GoldenEye.com) where she teaches classes from Jet Ski Leg to Stretch & Snorkel. In the north coast village of Oracabessa, this historic resort is scheduled to re-open on November 12th after a two-year renovation that added eleven beach cottages, six lagoon suites and two restaurants. “GoldenEye is no longer an all-inclusive resort,” said Jason Henzell, president of Island Outpost’s five Jamaican properties. “We want our guests to go off-property and sample the restaurants, fishing markets and rum shops in the town.” For history buffs, the villa once lived in by spy novelist Ian Fleming is available for rent, complete with his original writing desk.
Active families like Beaches Boscobel where nature walks and a round of golf are as popular as the dessert buffet. (www.beaches.com). For Tiger Woods wannabees up to sixteen years old, Junior Golf Camp at the nearby Sandals Golf & Country Club comes with take-home notes from the coach. A humongous Pirates Island and the XBOX 360 Game Garage keeps teens occupied while the older folks chill out on a seaside beach chair.
Grown-ups aren’t the only ones who enjoy a rub-down after a round of golf or a romp on the beach. At the Sunset Beach in Montego Bay and the Sunset Jamaica Grande in Ocho Rios (www.sunsetbeachresort.com), kids can chill-out Jamaica-style with a host of pampering options. A clever menu of treatments geared to young spa enthusiasts and their parents include the ‘Mommy & Me’ package of blissful neck and shoulder massages and the ‘Daddy & Me ‘option that includes mini-facials for the boys in the family.
A short hop across the Caribbean Sea, the Radisson Aruba Resort is selling the “Endless Summer Savings “packages through December 21st.
www.hiltoncaribbean.com/scuba with booking code DZ. Golf is the star attraction at the resorts in Barbados, Trinidad and Ponce, Puerto Rico where the “Tee-Off Time” package offers two rounds of golf, breakfast and caddy. Visit www.hiltoncaribbean.com/golf with booking code TJ.
The Marriot Curacao Beach (www.mariott.com) welcomes families with a “Stay for Breakfast” package for two adults and children under twelve years old. With rates as low as $139 per night, per room, the beach is too close to pass up.
A short hop across the Caribbean Sea, the Radisson Aruba (www.radisson.com) has extended the “Endless Summer Savings “packages through December 21st. Room rates starting at $178 per night include free meals for kids and beverage credits for parents. Fronting Palm Beach with a bonanza of shady palapas, top-shelf vacation amenities include the Larimar Spa and the nearby Tierra del Sol championship golf course. For bonding on the high seas, the Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta (November 12-20) celebrates its 20th anniversary this year with events on and off the water. 
At Antigua’s all-inclusive Jolly Beach Resort, a creative calendar of activities from marshmallow roasts and cricket lessons to water sports and beading are included in the Jolly Family Program.
One Big Happy
Kids dive into Aqua School at the Elegant Hotels properties in Barbados (Colony Club, Turtle Beach, Crystal Cove and Tamarind; www.eleganthotels.com), which includes free instruction in kayaking, snorkeling, sailing, wake boarding and wind-surfing. “Families tell us they’re looking for a chance to enjoy new experiences and learn new skills together while on vacation,” said Sylvia Scholey, vice president of sales and marketing. “Parents want to be sure their children have a variety of options and our new Aqua School is the perfect answer.”
At Antigua’s all-inclusive Jolly Beach Resort (www.jollybeachresort.com), a creative roster of activities from marshmallow roasts and cricket lessons to water sports and beading are included in the Jolly Family Program. The Teenz Club hosts Moonlight Scavenger Hunts and for the junior foodies in the family, ‘My Jolly Little Chef’ is a cooking class taught by the in-house chefs.
Nature gets a standing ovation in the Bahamas, with unruffled beaches and beaucoup fishing and diving. The undisputed boating epicenter, the Abacos islands are a necklace of cays more than a hundred miles long. North of Marsh Harbour is Treasure Cay with one resort, one golf course and plenty of sandy beaches. Too good to miss, the “WTF” package or “When Turtles Fly,” running November 1 – 22 and November 28 - December 17, starts at $499 per person. This price includes roundtrip airfare on Continental Airlines from Fort Lauderdale (FLL) to Treasure Cay (TCB) or on American Airlines from Miami (MIA) to MHH (Marsh Harbour (MHH), three nights at the Green Turtle Club and a golf cart commute to the beaches on the Atlantic side. Visit www.greenturtleclub.com. Visit www.bahamas.com.s
By Melanie Reffes
When the temperatures plunge in North America, winter-weary Americans pay top dollar to flee the cold and the Caribbean gets crowded. When the temperatures heat up at home, prices in the tropics dip by as much as 60 percent, with flights that don’t have to be booked six months in advance to confirm low fares and hotels that pile on incentives like bonus nights and free massages. In short, your clients might be missing out on smoking deals and cool trade winds by overlooking the Caribbean during the low season.
Curaçao
On the southern fringe of the hurricane belt, Curaçao is a cosmopolitan mélange of Caribbean charm and European flair. A “Top 10 Destination for 2010” as chosen by Microsoft’s Bing, and the only Caribbean destination to make the list, the Dutch island tempts with gourmet eateries, unspoiled beaches and the pastel-pretty city of Willemstad. Brand new on the hotel horizon, the Hyatt Regency Curaçao opened in April with introductory rates starting at $199 per room. Wooing the summer market, the island’s largest property is full service with the Atabei Spa, Camp Hyatt and Pete Dye-designed 18-hole golf course. “We have made a special effort to preserve the natural surroundings,” said Diego Concha, general manager, “with local elements from building materials and décor to landscaping.” Visit www.curacao.hyatt.com
Adjacent to Rif Fort, a 19th century landmark designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, 237-room Renaissance Curaçao is selling “Escape! Romance” which includes a couples massage, breakfast for two and an in-room bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne. Nightly rate for an ocean view room in low season is $309, compared to $422 in peak season. Visit www.renaissancecuracao.com
AGENT TOOLS: www.BookResortTravel.com is a website for travel professionals with current incentives to book both the Renaissance Curacao and Renaissance Aruba, including cash rewards and free nights. “Working closely with travel agents, the common theme we kept hearing was the importance of the personalization of the client experience,” said Janien Huistra, director of sales and marketing for both resorts.
Anguilla
Often considered a pricey island, Anguilla is also on sale during the summer with the “Friends and Family” package at the swishy CuisinArt Resort & Spa. Advertising “the more, the merrier,” one room can be had for $400 per night and the second one for $200 per night for a savings of 50 percent, regardless of how many people are in each room. The summer sale requires a minimum five-night stay. Visit www.cuisinartresort.com
Jamaica
According to John Lynch, director of tourism for Jamaica, summer travel means an affordable holiday. “Visitors will not only enjoy the more than 150 attractions Jamaica has to offer, but also unbeatable summer deals from our many hotels and resorts.” Dishing up an array of romance perks, 524-room Holiday Inn SunSpree in Montego Bay, the only all-inclusive in the brand portfolio, is offering gratis Caribbean Wedding packages with nights booked. “Our heavenly Couples Beach Massage at sunset is quickly becoming a ‘must-do’ for our brides and grooms,” said Nicola Madden-Greig, director of marketing & sales, referring to the medley of massages offered in the just-opened Sol-Mer Spa. Couples receive 10,000 Priority Club points, which can be converted into frequent-flyer miles. Visit www.caribbeanhi.com
In what may be the best bargain on the beach, Ritz-Carlton is rolling out the red carpet with a bevy of good deals throughout the summer including the Club Level Experience package. “Book 4 nights, Pay for 3” starts at $379 per room at the Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall in Montego Bay and “Book 5, Pay for 4” starts at $529 at both the Grand Cayman and San Juan properties. Valid through the end of June, a Club Level vacation comes with a personal concierge and breakfast. Visit www.ritzcarlton.com
Breezes Resorts is picking up the tab for checked luggage at their properties in Jamaica, Curacao and the Bahamas. The “Baggage Fee Included” promotion offers a $100 spa credit per room to travelers who trade-in their baggage fee receipt during seven-night minimum stays through October 31st. Super-Inclusive rates start at $120 per person, per night throughout the summer. Visit www.breezes.com
Cayman Islands
“Cayman Summer Splash” kicks off on May 15th in the Cayman Islands. Children stay free at many family-friendly hotels, eat free at a variety of restaurants and receive free admission to top attractions including the perennial kid-pleaser Stingray City. Visit www.caymanislands.ky
Bahamas
It may be better in the Bahamas with the “Sunsational Savings” package at the 694-room Sheraton Nassau Beach Resort. The 4th night is free when five are confirmed - $219 per room, per night, including breakfast for two, snorkeling and wind surfing. Visit www.sheratonnassau.com
Montserrat
For something completely different, “Voyage to the Volcano’ on the tiny island of Montserrat is a six day package in one of three villas and includes a boat tour to the now buried former capital city of Plymouth, car rental and meals. Rates start at $885 per person with a dip to $785 per person when four or more book the same package. Visit www.divemontserrat.com
